|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hane no Kori Vice Captain
|
 Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 10:13 am
Here, in this sticky, I have created a guide on how to make a character for D&D. It may not give you the perfect character, but it will certainly help you understand the layout of the basic character sheet and set you on the right path to making memorable characters. There will be a character sheet layout, a worded guide, and a picture guide, all set out in the next four posts. In the Player's Handbook, there is guide on how to fill out your character sheet, but if you don't actually have that book, then it won't help you. This guide is meant to fill in for the PHB, and possibly supplement it if you do have the book. If you have any questions relating to the content of this sticky, please feel free to post them in here. If you would like to simply comment on this sticky, post here instead. Contents: Introduction post
Character sheet layout
Written guide {two posts}
Picture guide {Introduction Post} {Character Sheet Layout} {Written Guide 1} {Written Guide 2} {Picture Guide}
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 9:10 am
The Character Sheet The numbered sections on this character sheet correspond to the numbered sections in both the written and picture guides. {Introduction Post} {Character Sheet Layout} {Written Guide} {Written Guide 2} {Picture Guide}
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hane no Kori Vice Captain
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hane no Kori Vice Captain
|
Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 9:16 am
What You'll Be NeedingFirst of all, you need a character sheet. You can look in the sticky titled "Online Resources" to find somewhere to print off one. You can also make one, of course, but if you've never made a character before, it might be more difficult. The character sheet used in this sticky is available in the "Online Resources" sticky, on the Wizards of the Coast website.Next, you need dice. Real dice are helpful, but the Wizards' Official D&D site has a dice roller. It's usually best to have one of each die type (d4, d6, d8, d10, d12, and d20), but having 4 or more d6 and a percentile die (the ones that have multiples of ten on each of the ten sides) as well is good. Inspiration also really helps for making a character. In my experience, it was the characters that I was really inspired to make, who were completely my own, and who were the most memorable to play. Of course, if you tend to play in combat-heavy adventures, this isn't necessary, but if you are more of the role-playing type, then the right character makes a big difference. Once you have your character sheet printed out, it is usually best to look over it and familiarize yourself with all the sections, especially on the front page since these tend to be the most confusing for first time players. For help with what terms on the character sheet mean, refer to the sticky "Terminology and Acronyms". 1 Ability ScoresNow you have to roll your character's ability scores. These are usually found in the top row of the character sheet, labeled Strength {STR}, Dexterity {DEX}, Constitution {CON}, Intelligence {INT}, Wisdom {WIS}, and Charisma {CHA}. You will notice that there are many columns of boxes next to the ones for the scores themselves. For now, you can ignore them. Usually, rolling for ability scores involves rolling 4d6 (4 six-sided dice) once for each score. You only add up the three highest dice for each score, and then write them down, but not immediately into the score boxes. You want to wait and see what they all are. Some Dungeon Masters use Home Rules to alter the way you roll ability scores, so you should check with yours to make sure. 2 Race and ClassAt some point, either now or before rolling scores, you need to know what race and class you'll be playing. For beginners, it's best to stick to races and classes in the Player's Handbook. You may want to read through the race and class entries in order to inspire yourself, and also to understand that certain races match well with certain classes. For example, half-orcs get an ability bonus to Strength. This means that they make good physical combatants, so fighter and barbarian are the best classes for them. However, you will also notice that their favoured class is barbarian. This suits them better than fighter because barbarians tend towards a chaotic alignment, and half-orcs do as well. However, though certain races are better suited to certain classes, a game that doesn't stick to the usual race and class combinations can have a little extra spice that makes the game more memorable. Don't hesitate to play an elven barbarian just for the thrills of having a supposed skinny, weakling elf whip around a huge greataxe. Just remember to have fun; an elven barbarian is a bit harder to play than a half-orc barbarian because their ability score adjustments actually hinder the character slightly. Okay, so for the sake of an example, I'm going to pretend I'm making that elven barbarian. My ability score rolls are as follows:
13, 13, 16, 10, 14, 10
So, since barbarians rely on strength and constitution, I would want to put the two highest scores in those stats. But, when I look at the elf entry, I realize that they get a +2 bonus to dexterity, and a -2 penalty to constitution. Since this means that if I were to put the 16 into strength, and 14 into constitution, the CON score would drop to 12. So, I'll just reverse the two rolls, and I end up with:
STR 14, DEX 12, CON 14, INT 10, WIS 13, CHA 13
She may be no smarter than the average peasant, but at least she's got some force behind her blows for any that might dare insult her intellect. 3 Hit Points, Saving Throws, and Attack ModifiersNext, calculate your Hit Points, or HP. Basically, you look at whatever hit die your class has. Since my elf is a barbarian, she has a d12 (12-sided dice) for her hit die, she'll start out with 12 HP + her constitution modifier... Remember those boxes next to ability scores that I told you not to worry about? Well, now you're going to. You'll notice that there is a row that says "Ability Modifier". In order to calculate your ability modifier (I know, I mentioned math! Don't worry, it's really easy), just subtract ten from each score and divide that number in half.
My elf has a STR score of 14. When I subtract 10 from 14, I get 4, and then divide that in half and get 2. If you end up with an odd number (such as my elf's two 13s), you just round down after dividing. If you're worrying about trying to remember what to do, don't! Once you've done it enough times you'll have it ingrained in your head just like me.
So, my elf has Ability Modifiers of: STR +2, DEX +1, CON +2, INT +0, WIS +1, CHA +1. This means that she has 14 HP at level 1.Next, saving throws should be easy to do. You'll see three long rows of boxes. Beside them should be the words "Fortitude", "Reflex", and "Will". You'll have to look up your class's chart to do this part. You'll notice in the progression there are three columns labeled in the same manner. These are your class's base saves. So, according to each column, fill the numbers for level 1 into the column on the character sheet that says "Base Saves". The barbarian class has a fortitude base save is +2, while the reflex and will bases are both +0. So, my elf has a fortitude save of 4, a reflex save of 1, and a will save of 1.The other column of stats is your "base attack bonus", or BAB. You'll write this in the box that notes this next to it. It should be below saving throws. There is also a box that says "Grapple" - this is the modifier you use when grappling. For this box, just add your strength bonus to your BAB. In the actual weapon boxes, you'll need to utilize the BAB. The second box, which says "Attack Bonus" is where you'll need to add your base attack bonus to either your dexterity modifier or your strength modifier. If the weapon is melee, use STR, and if the weapon is ranged, use DEX. The barbarian class has a BAB of +1 at first level (as a matter of fact, you'll notice that it's the same as level, but more on that much later). So, when my elf attacks, her melee attack bonus will be +3, while her ranged attack bonus will be +2. If she decides to grapple, her bonus for that will also be +3.4 Racial and Class AbilitiesWhile you're looking at your class and race, you should write down all the racial and class abilities. There's a spot on the second page for that, under the heading "Special Abilities". It's best to write down the racial abilities first, since those (usually) don't change or increase in amount, while class abilities do both. Only write down the class abilities for the level you're at. Nailah, as I've decided to call my elf, has all the racial abilities of the elf. I note her speed on the first page (30ft) by the HP box, her size (Medium) in the character description at the top of the page, and all her extra weapon proficiencies underneath the weapons' boxes. I've already taken into account the ability modifiers, so underneath the "Special Abilities", I only feel I need to note her bonus to Listen, Search, and Spot checks, immunity to magical sleep effects, bonus against enchantment spells or effects, and low-light vision. Under languages (which is underneath the "Special Abilities" list), I note that she knows common and elven, and remind myself to look back at the bonus languages later.
Then, I look at the barbarian entry, and add "Fast Movement", "Illiteracy", and "Rage 1/day" to the list. I would ignore illiteracy, for reasons I'm going to note later, but I'm not sure if I want to yet.
Remember, this is only an example. If you feel you need to write down everything, do it. When you adjust to the game after playing more often, you'll be able to remember more of the details.{Introduction Post} {Character Sheet Layout} {Written Guide} {Written Guide 2} {Picture Guide}
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 9:17 am
5 Skills and FeatsSkills and feats are a bit simpler than some of the other work that it takes to make a character. I think I'll explain skills first. On the first page, I assume that you've noticed the long line of skills on the right side of the page. At each level, your character will gain something called "Skill Points" which are used to advance training in skills. In your class entry, there should be a section which tells you how many skills points you gain at each level (which is multiplied by four at first level, as noted), and below that your list of class skills. On the character sheet, you should make sure to check these off, as it will be important to note. There is a limit to how many skill points you can put into each skill, based on what each skill is for you. For class skills and skills which can be used untrained, each point is equal to one rank, while all the other skills (called "cross-class skills") need two points for each rank. The rank limits are as follows: Class skills can have up to level + 3 ranks
Non-class skills which can be used untrained (such as search) can have up to level ranks
Cross-class skills can also only have up to level ranks, but as stated above, need twice as many points to each rank
As for feats, it is really just a matter of looking through the feats in the PHB or on the SRD which is linked in "Resources", and selecting feats which your character meats the prerequisites for and can use. All characters get a feat every three levels, as well as first level. Nailah only gets four skill points a level, so I decide to allocate her 16 skill points for first level as follows:
Climb {4 points} - +6
Intimidate {4 points} - +5
Jump {4 points} - +6
Survival {4 points} - +5
I could take two of these skill points and apply them to the illiteracy ability of the barbarians, in order to get rid of it, but I decide that, since I've never had an illiterate character before, it might be interesting.
For her feat, I decide that weapon focus (greatsword) is fitting, meaning that when she attacks with any greatsword, she can wield it more efficiently and thus gains a +1 bonus on attack rolls.6 EquipmentThis part is not only important, as your character needs something to fight with and defend him or herself, but also food to eat and extra money for frivolous things. It is important to note how much money you'll have access to at first level. Since most SRDs fail to note this, I shall simply duplicate the chart here for you. Barbarian, Bard - 4d4 x 10gp {100gp}
Cleric, Rogue - 5d4 x 10gp {125gp}
Druid - 2d4 x 10gp {50gp}
Fighter, Paladin, Ranger - 6d4 x 10gp {150gp}
Monk - 5d4 gp {12gp, 5sp}
Sorcerer, Wizard - 3d4 x 10 gp {75gp}
First, you'll want to buy armour/shield(s) (from now on, when I say armour, I mean both armour and shields) and weapons, since those tend to be most important. Take a look at your weapon proficiencies (which you might want to have marked somewhere on your sheet even though there's no space for them, specifically), and your armour proficiencies, and let that help decide what you get. Take note also of class features that may make a certain weapon or armour type preferable. For example, a monk without armour can add her wisdom bonus to her AC, and a rogue can use evasion only if wearing light armour or lacking it altogether. Also, pay specific attention to restrictions on weapons or armour - druids, for example, cannot use any armour made of metal. Also, arcane casters should take note that armours have something called an "Arcane Spell Failure". This is because arcane magic requires your character to be mostly unrestricted in movement in order to complete the somatic (motion-based) components of spells. It is best to either go without armour, or use an armour with a very low spell failure. After you've selected your armour and weapons, you should proceed onto your other equipment - clothing, food, entertainment, tools, lighting, and various other things that you'll find in chapter 7, just after armour and weapons. Spend as much money as you can - it does weigh something, after all - a standard rule (though I am not sure it is written in any book) is that 50 coins weigh one pound. As you come close to finishing your equipment up, you should look at page 162, at the table "Carrying Capacity". Look up your character's strength score along the left hand side, and then write down your light load, medium load, and heavy load underneath your equipment in the space provided. You usually should try to stay in the light load area, since you are unencumbered that way, and otherwise you would move slower and get tired quicker. 7 Armour ClassNow that you've bought armour, you can fill in your armour class. Just fill in all the little boxes (the most important being armour bonus, shield bonus, and dex modifier), ignoring modifiers you don't have, and add the total up. My elf, Nailah, has a dexterity modifier of +1, and since she bought studded leather, also has an armour bonus of +3, making her armour class 14.8 SpellsIf you're not playing a spellcaster at the moment, you don't necessarily need to pay attention to this section (although it may help for future reference), but if you are this section is very important. A spellcaster without spells is kind of like a declawed cat. Sure, the bite might hurt a bit, but the claws tend to do more damage. So you're going to need two things open in the PHB (or an SRD) - your class and your spell list. In the bottom right hand corner of the second page, there is a chart. You're going to copy the relevant information from first level into this chart The first level human sorcerer, Merlin, can cast 5 cantrips (0-level spells) per day, and 3 1st-level spells per day. This goes in the third column, beside "0" and "1st". The number of spells of each level that he knows goes into the first column, with 4 in the "0" row, and 2 in the "1st" row. I'm going to ignore the other two columns for now.Divine casters only use the "Spells per day" column, because they innately know all the spells on their spell list once they are able to cast spells of that level. Wizards are a bit more complicated - read the section in their class entry under "Spellbooks" to find out how many spells they know at each level. Now, flip to your spell list, and pick a number of spells from cantrips/orisons, and from 1st level as you know. From the sorcerer spell list, I pick resistance, light, prestidigitation, and mage hand, for his four cantrips, and magic missile and true strike for his two 1st-level spells.Next, go to the front of the book, and find the page about ability scores. You should see a table called "Ability Modifiers and Bonus Spells". Find the ability modifier for your key spellcasting ability (Wis for divine casters, Cha for Sorcerers and Bards, and Int for Wizards), and then follow it across the chart to find out how many bonus spells you have. Merlin has a charisma of 16, and thus an ability modifier of +3. So, under his "Bonus Spells" column, I write that he can cast one additional 1st-level spell a day. I also note that once he gains 2nd- and 3rd-level spells, he'll also be able to cast an extra one of each of those.Your spells' saving throw DCs are the last thing to do. The box just above the spell table says "Spell Save". This is where you write the base saving throw DC. It is 10 + your spellcasting ability modifier. Then, in the chart, under "Spell Save DC", add the spell level to this number and write it down. This is the number that targets will have to beat in a saving throw to resist the effects of your spells that are affected by saving throws. Since his charisma modifier is a +3, Merlin's base Spell Save is a 13. So, underneath "Spell Save DC" for 0-level, the DC is 13, and increases by one for each level of spell. Thus, his 1st-level spells take a 14 to save against. 9 LanguagesHere, you've probably already written down your racial languages as noted in "Racial and Class Abilities", above. If you haven't you should now. Then, you need to decide on bonus languages. You have a number of bonus languages equal to your intelligence modifier. Nailah, having an intelligence modifier of only zero, does not gain any bonus languages. But a friend of hers, who happens to have a modifier of one, also knows draconic.10 Other ThingsThis section is reserved for the things outlined in purple in the layout. Most of these have been filled in along the way, but if you haven't, make sure you fill them in. You also need to fill in the information at the top of the page. This includes your character's description, as well as what diety they worship, and their alignment. Some classes and races place restrictions on these, so pay careful attention to those. Looking at both class and race descriptions, I note that elves tend towards chaos, and barbarians away from law, so I decide to make Nailah chaotic/neutral {C/N}. I also decide that she should worship Kord, god of strength.{Introduction Post} {Character Sheet Layout} {Written Guide 1} {Written Guide 2} {Picture Guide}
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hane no Kori Vice Captain
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hane no Kori Vice Captain
|
Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 2:58 pm
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 10:34 am
Wow...
I own the Player's Handbook. I've made many characters. Yet every time I made a character, some part of the process managed to confuse the hell out of me. Why can't they make the book as easy to follow as this guide?
Thanks to Hane no Kori for making this topic so much more understandable than the book!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hane no Kori Vice Captain
|
Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 6:37 am
Oh wow. Thanks. I never learned from the book how to make a character, my DM taught me. I think I may have used the book as a guide, though.
Well, I'm glad this guide is helping. And it's definitely no problem. The purpose of this guide was to help people, so as long it's doing it's job I'm really happy.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 2:05 am
My poor brother just spent 3 hours making a character today... After the first hour, he asked for my help. I referred to your guide more than my Player's Handbook, and my brother really liked it.
So, thanks for making my bro' happy.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hane no Kori Vice Captain
|
Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 6:45 am
Oh, wow. You're very welcome.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 10:25 am
*smiles* We had fun doing it, too.
The most effective part about this guide is the fact that you have pictures and examples of how to properly fill it out. The real book lacks that.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 7:15 pm
I'll definitely say that it's better than the PHB explanation! You cover everything so...clearly...and in such a logical fashion...TAKE NOTE, WIZARDS OF THE COAST! TAKE. NOTE.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:38 am
Aw, guys, stop, you're embarrassing me. redface
I really didn't realize it was that good.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hane no Kori Vice Captain
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 10:34 am
But it is an amazing guide!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:47 pm
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 10:57 pm
I'm having a hard time using this guide because I'm not really using that version of the character sheet, could you tell me where you found that one?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
