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Sewing Tutorial
Advanced Hand Stitches and Getting to Know Your Sewing Machine



1: Blanket Stitch - Very similar to the overcast stitch, but a bit stronger and more decorative
Just preform the overcast stitch, but make the needle go through the loop before pulling the thread tight


2: Buttonhole Stitch - This one is easily confused with the blanket stitch. As the name suggests, it's great for making buttonholes
This stitch creates a Purl or a small loop at the edge of the fabric by making more of a knot than is found in the blanket stitch - look closely at the diagrams


3: Cross or Catch Stitch - used for hems - it only catches a couple of threads, making it hard to see the stitching from the right side


4: Blind stitch - used when you don't want the stitching to show on one side


5: Double Blind Stitch - for those places you can't get to from the wrong side and don't want the stitching to show on the right side (great for finishing up the lining in a garment) -This is, in my opinion, the hardest stitch
The first picture is how it would look done loosely. The second shows how the needle slides through the fabric, only catching the inner-most layers, and how the thread lays once smoothed out.. you will want to iron the seam after doing this stitch as it will wrinkle it!





The Sewing Machine



Obviously, every machine is different, but here's the basic machine parts:

• Spool Pin -holds the spool of thread
  
• Bobbin -holds the bottom thread -You can buy these pre-wound with white or black thread
  
• Bobbin Compartment -Place bobbin here
  
• Needle
  
• Presser Foot -holds the fabric down while you sew
  
• Presser Foot Lifter -raises and lowers the presser foot
  
• Feed Dogs -located under the presser foot- helps pull the fabric through at the proper speed
  
• Foot Pedal -push it to make the machine go
  
• Balance Wheel -manually move the needle up or down
  
• Reverse Lever -sew backwards (works with the foot pedal)
  
• Bobbin Winder -pop an empty bobbin on it and push the foot pedal to wind your choice of thread onto it

Those are just the basic pieces found on every machine, and the only ones we need to worry about just yet.
Very important read the manual! Every machine is different, mostly in how to thread the machine and how to set up the bobbin- and your machine may be able to do some neat things that you wouldn't know about without reading the manual- like my newest one does a neat stitch where it makes hearts, flowers, several variations of the feather stitch (I'll talk about this stitch when we get to embroidery!) and a lot more
On most machines you also have dials to adjust the stitch length and style -the ones you will use most are the straight stitch and the zigzag stitch
-I say most machines because some people (including myself) own vintage or antique sewing machines- mine is one that folds down into the table and has a large, manual pedal.. unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to use it.. those machines can only do the basic straight stitch. Here is a similar one to mine.. but mine isn't a Singer. These babies are great for sewing through tough fabrics like leather, but very expensive and hard to find.

Back to our lesson!

To get started, set up the machine (thread the machine, put the bobbin in, and plug it in), place the fabric under the presser foot (the needle should be at it's highest position) with the bulk of the material to the left, not bunched up against the machine. The fabric is pulled away from you when you sew, unless you're using the reverse lever, so be sure you're starting at the top edge of the fabric (you can also use paper for practice). Now, lower the presser foot, gently apply pressure to the foot pedal and use one hand to guide the fabric to keep it straight, the machine will do the rest.

Be sure you don't use too much pressure on the foot pedal, you don't want it to take off on you, and keep your fingers away from the needle unless you are trying to sew the fabric to your hands!

Once you get the hang of it, you can make it go faster- just don't go too fast before you're ready. Not only could you sew your fingers to the fabric, but it can also get away from you and make the stitching all wacky.. then you have to use the seam ripper and undo it all, then re-sew it.. Trust me, that's no fun, especially when you sew a long piece.. gonk

Your machine will likely come with a couple of different presser feet, each with it's own use. The basic, all-purpose foot should come already atatched to the machine. The others you're likely to get are the buttonhole foot and the piping/zipper foot. You can buy other types (gathering foot, walking foot, embroidery foot, pin tuck foot, rolled hem foot, and many more) but they're rather expensive. I hardly ever use anything but the basic foot, it can do it all, just not as easily.

Your Homework:
Practice the new stitches on basic cotton or paper
If you plan on using a sewing machine: read the manual, learn how to work the machine, and practice some basic stitches.
To practice the stitches on a machine, draw some lines on your fabric/paper. Straight lines, curved lines, lines with sharp turns (you'll want to have the needle down in the fabric, lift the foot, turn the fabric, then lower the foot for nice sharp turns)