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Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 7:35 pm
A Crash Course for Prospective Owners I don't profess to know all there is to know about running a shop (impossible!) but over the last couple of years I've acquired a certain level of familiarity with my beloved B/C and all the wonderful (strange, quirky, adorable and downright bizarre) people and critters that inhabit it. Here I hope to share some of that knowledge with the next generation of shop owners, so they may (hopefully!) avoid some of the mistakes I've seen and even made myself. Nothing teaches like experience.
Questions, Comments, Suggestions welcome! Please drop me a PM if you have something to say, so I can address it quickly.
Updates Sept 18/2009 ~ Guide Started May 6/2010 ~ First Draft Complete Oct 7/2010 ~ Added Dropbox + a few tweaks
~*~ Table of Contents ~*~ • Introduction -----You are Here • So You Wanna Be A B/C Shop Owner -----Do you have what it takes to go the distance? • Breedables Changeables Taste Test -----101 flavours, all of them delicious. • Planning for Success -----Getting into srsbsns - what you need to proceed. • Art -----Art does not pwn all, but it sure does help. • Research -----Imagination still needs believability. • Tools of the Trade -----Stuff to make your stuff. • Guilds -----Setting up your own dictatorship domain. • Shop Mules -----Keep that stubborn donkey in line. • Your B/C Rights & Obligations -----Ignorance of the law is no excuse! • Image Wrangling -----Managing your visual empire. • The Bottom Line -----Show me the gold!
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Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 8:22 pm
So you Wanna Be A B/C Shop Owner... Starting up a B/C Shop is a popular endeavor for Gaians. I get asked fairly often how one goes about setting up shop, but that is not what this first section is about - this one is SHOULD you start up a shop? This tutorial is meant to help you answer that question and provide some of the background knowledge that you will need when planning to set up a shop.
Questions to Ask Yourself (and be honest about it!) You don't need absolutely everything on this list, but each piece you're missing will make it that much harder to set up and run a B/C shop, as you will have to hire someone else who can fill in.
Commitment • How much time do I have to devote to getting a shop up and running during the first six months? • Am I willing to be online everyday, for at least an hour or two? • Am I willing to be online even longer during events? * Are I willing to give up my free time plans to cover for others if necessary? • Am I available to be online for questions from staff through IM's on a daily basis? • Am I still going to be able to devote time to the shop in six months? A year? Two? • Is my timezone favorable to running events, if not, am I willing to work around it?
Personality • Am I organized? • Am I friendly and easy to talk to online? • Am I responsible and dependable? • Can I handle multiple things going on at once? • Am I cool under pressure, diplomatic, and level headed? • Am I fair and capable of remaining unbiased? • Can I remember to track growings and get things out on time? • Can I evaluate, critique and help teach other staff members while not offending them?
Artistic Talent, Skills & Assets • Do I have an understanding of color? • Can I bring variety and interest into all my colorings without them looking all the same? • Do I have the required software and hardware for digital art? • Do I have the ability to cert pets? • Am I a good colorist in my own right? • Can I do edits for the type of artwork I want to have? • Can I work under a tight schedule, if there is a sudden shortfall in pets? • Can I make my own banners, certs, backgrounds, and other graphics? • Am I able to work from a customer's description when coloring and/or editing? • Am I capable of handling the accounting and math needed for bookeeping? • Am I capable of writing good background material, stories, and concepts? • How much capital do I have to invest in my future shop? • Can I sketch/draw/ink/template the lineart myself? • How many pieces of base lineart am I going to need? • How easy or hard will it be to get more matching art later on if I want?
Expectations & Goals • Why do I want to start a shop? • What do I expect to get out of running a shop? • What are my goals for the shop? • What is my shop's theme? (not just species!) • Do I believe in, and have a passion for, my future shop? • Who are my competitors? • How is my shop going to be better than the competition?
Experience • Do I know how to run forum games? • Do I know how to plan and prepare for a B/C event? • Do I know how to run a B/C event? * Do I know the day-to-day tasks involved in maintaining a shop? • Do I know how to organize and manage large groups of images? • Do I know how to run metaplots? • Do I know how to run RP contests? • Do I know how to set up a hiring thread? • Do I know how to make a shop layout? • Do I know how to set up an owner's list? • Do I know how to set up and organize a guild? • Do I know how to recruit and organize an affiliate's list? • Do I know how to run an advertising campaign? • Do I know how to manage others and run a productive staff?
TL biggrin R - For anyone who's now thinking "I'm not reading all that, it's too long!" Turn right around. Go back to enjoying other people's events. You're not shop owner material - you'll be wasting your time and money trying to make it in the B/C world.
Let's get a few things straight. B/C Shops are not easy money. B/C Shops are not easy to succeed with. Anyone can set up a shop, but 95% of shops do not survive their first year.
If you're planning to be in the 5% that do, be ready to redefine the meaning of hard work. It takes time, dedication, and a whole lot of talent to pull off a successful B/C shop - a really successful shop, not just one that happens to still put on events once in a while, but a shop that's active, recognized by a large part of the B/C community, and in demand.
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Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 8:26 pm
Breedables/Changeables Taste Test
Some unofficial categories of shop types that are easily identifiable in the Breedables/ Changeables Forums. Note that they are based on my own opinions and observations, and *most* shops combine one or more of these types; Sig-Candy/Community, RP-Req'd/Unique, etc. Interest Thread - a pre-shop where the prospective owner organizes the things they will need for their shop, attract interest/staff, and get a feel for the potential popularity of their concept. I/T's can be a good way to avoid investing a large amount of time and effort into a shop that will have limited appeal. I/T's belong in Pricing, Assistance and Suggestions, not the main B/C forum. Greenhorns - Even lower on the totem pole than Marginals, "green" shops are those opened and run by staff who have no experience in B/C beyond possibly what they've observed by participating in other shops. They may or may not have gone through the I/T stage. Green shops have the highest failure rate amongst new shops, due in large part to inexperience of the owners. With some help and guidance, it's perfectly possible for a green shop to succeed - many however are abandoned by their neophyte owners when they realize that running a shop isn't as easy as they expected. Marginals- Shops on the rise, decline, or that have graduated out of Greenhorn status make up the Marginal class. The bulk of the B/C shops fall into this one - the many small fish in the big Breedables/Changeables pond. Their owners are often still inexperienced, or with limited amounts of time to devote to their shop. That doesn't make marginal shops bad, quite to the contrary, this is simply a transition period between either moving up into one of the more advanced categories or closing. Shop's futures are made or broken in this early formative period, after the shiny newness has worn off, but before the shop has found it's true place. Cash Cows - it's the unfortunate truth that some people start up B/C shops simply because of the profits they expect to gain. A few actually have the talent and knowledge to succeed in setting up cash cows, at least for a while. The primary problem with cash cow shops is that when the novelty wears off, or sales die down, the owner often abandons the shop or more likely, sells it off to the highest bidder. Cash cow shops are often under the ownership (or previous ownership) of someone who has many running shops and/or interest threads. Often all of the art/templates/graphic assets will be purchased from other people. The quality standard of cash cow shops varies but is generally average to low, relying on high volume to produce profits rather than any outstanding features. The actual running of the shop is often delegated to an employee, and the owner devotes little time to caring for their shop. Casual - not to be confused with a marginal shop, casual shops don't have inactive periods because of forced hiatus, lack of time or enthusiasm, but by design. In general owners of casual shops like their shops just the way they are, slow and laid back. They often hold spontaneous events, and work on their shops when they want, because they want to, not for the potential profits. Casual shops actually weather inactive periods better than most, as there is usually very little problem in "picking up where they left off". Casual shops often attract a dedicated group of regs who take on the task of keeping the shop active. Sig-Candy - the opposite of Rp-Req'd shop in some ways, fluff shops rely almost entirely on the beauty of their lines/colorings to draw customers. These shops often have variant lineart for different "sub-species" or personalities, branching evolution options, or other beyond-basics lineart. Art is king in the eye candy shop. Events are generally well balanced with auctions fetching high prices. Some sig-candy shops may be RP-Req'd as well, but many are not. Customs are often quite intricate and detailed, as Sig-Candy shops need strong artistic talents to thrive. Community Spirit - Community shops are all about the people. Some may be started up and run by a group of friends for their own enjoyment, or simply owned by people who want to be welcoming and inclusive. The pets themselves may be what initially attracts customers to the Community shop, but it's the shop's atmosphere and patrons that make them want to stick around. Newbies are welcomed with open arms in Community shops, so long as they are willing to maintain the enjoyable atmosphere. Giveaways and events are usually common in a Community shop, and the owners spend a lot of time asking their customers what they want and trying to go that extra mile to make sure they're happy. RP-Req'd - Shops which require participation in roleplay as a condition for keeping your pet. Many also have limits on the number of pets you can own. Shop development tends to be very deep, with an established world and lots of background details. Much of this shop's activity takes place in the guild (and they are virtually guaranteed to have one). RP Required shops usually have a much smaller number of customers than other types, but they are also much more familiar with each other - a stronger sense of community. RP Req'd shops can be intimidating for newer arrivals to the B/C scene, who gravitate more towards Sig-Candy shops. Uniques - simply put, a shop that offers unique art for each pet rather than using a stock base. They tend to be either simpler than most B/C pets or very heavily RP-Required, due to the very high art workload a uniques shop has. Must have either extremely dedicated and talented artist-owners or a lot of colorist/art staff, far more than a stock base shop. Because each pet is individually drawn Unique shops have a much more difficult time managing demand and finding artistic staff. The total number of pets produced tends to stay small compared to a templated shop. Titans - the big names of B/C. No need to name them, you probably already know the shops I'm talking about yourself. They're characterized by instant identifiability, an established customer base, market penetration (a large number of owned pets), consistent quality, and entrenchment - these are shops that have been around for years. Their rules and procedures are generally well established. Events attract hundreds of people, with raffles or auctions fetching high prices. The balance of sales generally leans towards auctions & customs and instead of flatsales. Due to the demand for the Titan shop's pets, they have little if any need to advertise. Many customers get their first pet from a friend's breeding rather than through a sale. Customs can be quite expensive and difficult to acquire.
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Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 11:05 pm
Planning for SuccessSo what good are these various unofficial shop types? Well, for starters, they represent different approaches existing owners have taken towards the same goal - a successful shop. What you define your personal shop's "success" as in large part will dictate what type of shop you're going to want to work towards. No one launches a Titan overnight, Casual shops do not churn out hundreds of pets a month, Sig-Candy shops don't need an in depth world background. I want to earn enough money for my quest I want a place to hang out and make friends I want my own RP community I want to be the best looking shop I want to have fun I want to...? What is your goal? Browse the B/C shops you like best - get to know the shops, their owners, and how they run. Your best defense against an early shop death is *NOT* art, not skills, and not money - it's KNOWLEDGE. Simply put, if you do not know what you are doing, you will have a very hard time. The Successful Shop Building Blocks • Knowledge • • Time • Skills • Funding • Art • KnowledgeThe easiest way to gain knowledge is to participate, both as a customer and, if you can manage it, as staff for an existing B/C shop. Even if you end up working at a shop that ultimately fails, you will likely learn what *not* to do, which is just as valuable as knowing what to do. From day to day activity, to organizing image load & owners lists, to custom rules and prices, and running events - experience is the best teacher. The talents you need as a shop owner are varied - equal parts artist, diplomat, manager, secretary, arbitrator, and friend. Study everything - from how a shop thread is organized, to how account mule(s) are used, to what goes into a guild, to thread rules and event procedures. If at all possible, work at an existing shop, or even several - as a colorist, manager, events assistant, whatever position you can get. Don't try to take over shops that aren't looking for help - you'll likely offend whomever is in charge, owners can be a touchy bunch. Generally if you're up front about wanting to learn the ropes, good owners should be happy to share their knowledge with you. TimeThis is another biggie. B/C shops take a LOT of time to develop properly. Consider all your current commitments, be they scholastic, work, family, hobbies or friends. As an owner, you should be putting in at LEAST one or two hours a day at your shop, be that chatting up customers, cleaning up your layout, working on your guild, coloring pets, or dealing with questions. Part of your job as an owner is supervising your staff, and odds are you will have staff - at least a couple of colorists, possibly a thread manager, editors, a certist, events co-ordinator(s), RP managers, and maybe more! Not every shop has a lot of staff, and don't take on more than you can handle, start small. If you spend more time dealing with your staff than they do working, you're going to have problems. Plan events around times that you can be present to mind them - they require much more attention than when the shop is "idling". Also consider how your timezone lines up with the majority of Gaia's population, which tends to be in the USA (GMT-5 to GMT-8 ). If you're running speed sales in the wee hours of the morning for the US, you may find that you get few entries. Developing a shop takes a lot more time than maintaining one. A lot of effort initially has to go into your rules, layout, procedures and FAQ's. It can be helpful to look at other shops when contemplating what to put in your own, but no matter how tempting, do NOT lift pieces of content wholesale. If you copy another shop without permission you may find yourself banned; copying is not worth the risk. SkillsTake stock of your own skills. Can you color? Specifically, can you color B/C pets? It takes skill to get the most out of a set of lineart and shading templates, "point and click" coloring will not win you any dedicated customers. Study pets you particularly admire and try reproducing the techniques (NOT the pet itself! ) Can you do animal patterns? Stripes? Gradients? Flowers? Stars & space? Candies, flames, or clouds? Editing is another important skill for a shop owner. It's not mandatory, but you won't be able to do most customs without some editing ability. Practice and use good reference images (do not copy, reference!) to help you. The internet is a seemingly endless source of tutorials for drawing anything from skulls to ringlets to armor plates. Organize. Running a shop can sometimes be a frantic juggling act, and dropping the balls in the middle of the performance is not an option! Keep a calendar for your growths and upcoming events, and communicate those plans through a staff subforum in your guild and/or by direct messages. Keeping a paper list handy at the computer is a great way to quickly jot down things that need attention, because they invariably crop up while you're working on something else! FundingThis is where most neophyte owners start, and it's the *wrong* place to begin a shop. Unless you're a mega-millionaire and you're going to finance every position in your shop as a paid employee, throwing money at a B/C concept is not going to work. Even hiring a full complement of paid staff usually doesn't work out, because teams need leadership and that's not an easy thing to find. You, as the owner, are responsible for injecting the life, the passion, and the drive into YOUR shop - if you can't be enthusiastic and committed, why would anyone else be? You will likely need a bankroll for starting up your shop if you're not up to doing all of the graphic and design work yourself. If you are hiring or contracting for all of it, setting up a full shop can become very expensive indeed. Conversely, if you are capable of doing most or all of the setup (banners, buttons, dividers, cert/tag, lineart, shading, sketches, accessories, items, maps, headers, footers, etc.) then your costs may be minimal. However, you should carefully assess your own skills against those of the shops you wish to compete with - can you match or exceed their quality? In some cases it's better to invest a bit of gold in the very best work you can afford, as it pays off in the long run. How Much and for What? I'm not going to put prices on here, for two reasons - they're highly dependent on the style and quality of the work, and the current economy, which is always changing. The best advice for figuring out prices is to do your research - use the forum search feature to find out how much similar work has sold for in the past. Lineart in particular is *highly* variable, anywhere from 10k to millions. Your best bet is to know the market - look at lineart auctions and shop sales to get a feel for what sells and how much it goes for. Sketches generally cost less than inked lines, and inked lines cost far less than lines fully templated, the art being equal. Sometimes entire shops come up for sale, including some or all of the items below. Commonly Purchased B/C Shop ComponentsThread Layout - post style, bullets, may also include Thread Graphics Thread Graphics - banners, affiliate buttons, dividers, etc. Mule's Avatar - price highly variable depending on theme Area Map - usually only for more serious/RP oriented shops. Lineart - any/all of the three items below • Sketches - pet/familiar designs which are then inked & shaded. • Inking - producing clean lines from a sketch • Shading Templates - multiple layers of highlights and/or shadows that give lineart depth Familiars - pets for pets Certificate (Cert or Tag)
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Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2009 3:17 pm
Art Let's make one thing very clear right up front; the two sides of B/C Shop Art: Amazing Art does not guarantee a Successful Shop. Poor Art almost certainly dooms a Shop to Failure. Thus, carefully consider your art - while alone it will not promise success, it *is* the single biggest initial draw of new customers into your shop, period. Low quality art will turn people away at the door, no matter how incredible your shop is otherwise. Your base lineart, which will become part of every single pet or character you create, is a significant investment, and one that generally pays itself back many times over. However, there is a big "if" attached; if you acquire art that is well beyond your own skills, you may find it very hard to edit and customize that art, which will severely curtail your shop's ability to do customs. Quote: ProtipWhen a new prospective customer arrives in your shop, the first thing they are going to look for is examples of your pets. Make sure you have some on display, either watermarked blank samples or finished pets! Shops with no examples (or only blacked out/very small pictures) may cause potential customers to walk right on out again. If at all possible, get art that matches your own style or that is easy for you to mimic. One of the biggest draws in many B/C shops (and also one of the biggest potential profits) are customs - pets made to order, based on the customer's description and/or references. If you choose not to offer customs, you cut out a potential source of income. If you are not capable of doing edits yourself, keep in mind that you will have to find some highly skilled editors if you want to offer customs in your shop, and that's not easy to do until you make a name for yourself. Stages The "average" or most common set of B/C lines includes: unisex "starter" stage (egg, basket, bottle, object, etc.) unisex or m/f child, male adult, female adult, and possibly gendered "elders". The more serious/RP oriented shops often have more lines, as do sig-candy shops - extra lines may be more stages (Ex: egg-infant-child-teen-adult-elder) or alternate stages, such as a choice of adult poses or professions (healer/scout/leader/mage/royal/etc). How much art you get will depend on what kind of shop you want and what you can afford/produce. More lines are not always better. Remember that especially with staged pets (those that grow from one set of lines to another) you will have to color/edit/cert each stage, a significant amount of work. Also consider where your art is coming from - if you're doing it yourself, no problem, if you want more stages later you can easily draw them. If on the other hand the lines are commissioned from someone else, you may have a harder time adding things later. It's best to buy everything you think you need at one time from one artist, if possible. The same goes for shading templates, if they were done by a different artist - all at once will ensure the best possible match. Concept & Style Art style is a matter of personal preference and ability - choose something you find appealing and that you're willing and able to match. I mentioned it earlier and I'll mention it again, make sure you can reproduce or at least do competent edits on your lineart! Edits that don't mesh well are jarring to the eye and unappealing. Chances are you already have a species (or several) and/or a concept in mind for you shop (humans, centaurs, monsters, cannids, equines, dragons, etc.) Do some research - what shops, if any, exist that share your species? There may be many (in the case of foxes, wolves, horses, etc) or very few (I can't think of any aardvark shops, nor too many frog/lizard/spider shops). The more shops already existing around your desired species the harder it's going to be to break into the market. Your shop concept shouldn't be confused with your shop species - take for example, dragons. There are many dragon shops, but there's also a huge potential variety due to varying concepts. Are they cute little chibi dragons that bring good luck? Fierce battling dragons that compete in fights? Peaceful dragons that protect and serve as guardians? Mischievous dragons that steal socks and wear them as hats? In short, what is the setting for your world, the story behind it. Even fluff shops have some kind of concept, it ties the shop together and gives you and your art some direction. If your chosen concept/species has been or is being done several times over, you may want to consider a different type of shop, unless you truly believe you can do that species/theme better than your predecessors. If your shop is similar, it's inevitable that people will draw a comparison. Forewarned is forearmed! Let's look at a few examples; two of the largest shops in B/C are horse and lion themed; other shops who choose those species need strong concepts to distinguish themselves. Consider it from the customer's point of view. If you're offering the same species, the same ideas, and a similar or lower quality of art, why would they frequent your shop? Remember that you lack two things as a new arrival the bigger shops rely heavily on - reputation and recognition. New shops are unknowns, your best chance is to distinguish yourself through your art, theme, and service, preferably all three.
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Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:11 pm
ResearchPhysical Reference MaterialsA good artist has a collection (small or large, most tending towards large!) of reference material, printed and electronic. This likely includes drawing/art books, scenery, manga/anime, "how-to" books, and anything else they found inspiring. Check out your local second hand stores, garage sales, and bookstore bargain bins for good books - what exactly you put in your reference library will depend a lot on what kind of pet your shop features. A good reference book should have ample illustrations and clear, concise instructions. Most "how to draw" books are of low quality, they take you step by step through copying various drawings without teaching HOW to draw them at all; avoid books that have nothing but step by step drawings. Some of my personal favorite reference books are listed below. General Animal Anatomy Amberlyn, J.C. - Drawing Wildlife A exceptionally cleanly illustrated book focusing on north american animals. Hamm, Jack - How to Draw Animals A great old techniques book, where the mechanics of animals are broken down into simple shapes - lots of cross species comparison.Hultgren, Ken - The Art of Animal Drawing Another old but still very relevant book, with lots of skeletal and pose references. Less technique and more examples than Hultgren's.General Drawing Books Tsukamoto, Hiroyoshi - MangaMatrix A beautiful reference book full of color illustrations, from many different artists in many styles. The actual content involves using a matrix to develop new ideas or directions in drawing that you might not otherwise go.Elvin & Felder - Draw Great Manga - A Complete Guide This book actually focuses less on manga and more on a good grounding in drawing techniques, from perspective to digital inking and sketch cleanup. Any book that has good illustrations or photgraphs of your interest area can be a useful one to have - don't discount those that seem unrelated at first glance either. Books can be just as much inspiration as useful reference, more often than not when stuck for ideas, a simple leafing through your library will help. Digital Reference MaterialsOf course it's even easier to collect digital reference materials. Make a habit of saving a copy of anything you particularly enjoy. With digital materials it's important to organize your collection so that you can find relevant things later on when you need them! Sort your materials by intended reference use - Background, Trees, Wings, Horns, Armor, Flames, Clothing, etc. That way when you're stuck trying to get something to look right, you can call up an appropriate folder and look at some references. A note: While I do advocate collecting digital material for reference, that is the only thing I'm advocating - that does NOT mean using the original work in any other way except as inspiration or reference. If you put your reference and your work side by side and you can tell they're derivatives of each other, you didn't reference, you copied, and that's not allowed. See The Copy FAQ for more information!
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Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:35 pm
Tools of the Trade
In essence, what is used, how it's used, and do you really need it. In general this amounts to "actual" items (in quotations, since some, like programs, aren't very tangible!) you'll use to run your B/C.
Hardware Since you're reading this, it's pretty much assured you have one thing already; a computer. =P That said, a particularly powerful computer is not a necessity for B/C though it can help when dealing with heavy editing. Most importantly, it needs to be able to run some kind of image editing/coloring software.
Tablet or Mouse? Some people are under the mistaken impression that you need a tablet in order to be a good colorist/editor. They would be wrong. I've seen people do incredible work with mice and touchpads - having a tablet will not magically make you a better artist. In fact, most traditional artists have difficulty transitioning to a tablet at first since they have to look at the screen instead of their hands! It's like learning to touch type after you got used to looking at your keyboard for the letters.
A tablet *will* make certain activities easier, after some practice. Linearting and sketching are much more natural with a tablet than without. If you become a seriously dedicated colorist or editor, getting a tablet is probably on your list of wishes. Try before you buy, whenever possible; Wacom tablets come highly recommended.
Software
Image Editing/Graphics Application For most people this is going to be one of two things: GIMP, a free application, or some flavor of Photoshop. The full "professional" version of Photoshop (Creative Suite) is extremely expensive, Elements is the more consumer price friendly model. Whichever raster graphics app you choose (or another, such as Corel Painter, Paint Shop Pro, etc.) expect to spend a considerable amount of time getting used to it. Tutorials are a big help here, but so is simply playing around and seeing what you can do.
Dedicated Lineart Editing Application An extra, since most graphics apps are quite capable of handling lineart production. Some programs are designed with nothing else in mind though, like SAI or Inkscape. If you have them and like them, use them. If you don't, you're fine without them.
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Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:41 pm
Guilds
As if setting up a shop wasn't complicated enough, most Breedables/Changeables feature a dedicated guild as well. Why would you want to set up a guild when you've got a perfectly good shop? Read on and find out. wink
A Forum to Call Your Own A guild costs 20k, you can buy one from the Guilds page or purchase a Guild off another user. The primary advantages of a guild are the ability to organize subforums, send announcements, and moderate your own threads (lock, unlock, edit, delete posts). Unlike your main shop thread, anyone who is Crew or higher can moderate the guild, making it easier to delegate tasks to other staff-persons. Remember to Crew your staff/shop mules in the guild. This gives them the ability to move, delete, lock and edit posts.
Guild Uses • Extra rules - Customs, Breedings, Pet Trades, Roleplaying, Elders, • FAQ's & Guides • Journals • Owner's List • Setting Information • Contests, Games & Giveaways • Events • Sales
Home Decorating You can customize the homepage and the guild's banner to your liking. The guild banner is 40x200 pixels - if your chosen image is a different size it'll be squished to fit, so it's best to make it exactly that size. It's useful to put a link back to the main shop on the Guild's homepage, so customers can easily find their way between the two. Your shop should have a prominent link to the guild in the first post.
Do Not Pass Go, Do Not Collect 200$ You can charge people gold to join your guild - I would suggest not doing so. You want your customers to join your guild, and the only thing you can use those entry fees for is paying for subforums and sending Guild Announcements anyways.
Public, Private or Hidden? You have three choices when it comes to who can access and view your guild. Public is the most liberal, allowing anyone to read and post. Because you cannot stop people from posting in a public guild (and you cannot send out Guild Announcements) it's recommended that you don't pick Public for your B/C guild. Hidden guilds are the opposite of Public - you can't even see what's in them without being a member. Now that might be tempting since it encourages people to join so they can see what's in there, I don't recommend it. Guilds are really useful for events, rules and all sorts of other things - but only if people can see them! That leaves Private; Private guilds can be seen by all, but only members can post in them. If you're setting your guild to private, it's recommended that you turn on Auto-Accept Join Requests OR you have someone checking for pending Join Requests on a daily basis. If your guild isn't monitored very often, go with Auto-Accept. You still have the ability to ban troublemakers from your guild if necessary and send Announcements.
Hark, hear the B/C Sing! Guild Announcements are a fairly recent feature on Gaia. it'll cost you about one gold per person in your guild to send a message, and you can only send one every 24 hours. Whatever you choose to do with your Announcements, do NOT spam your guild members - all that will accomplish is getting them to disable the feature or leave your guild! Good things to announce include events, flatsales, RP contests, auctions, breeding slots or customs that are available. If you've made a significant change to one or more of the shop's rules or features, that might also be announcement worthy. Try to group together several noteworthy items in one Announcement if possible. There's a character limit on announcements - 1,500 characters, so keep your points concise. Guild Announcements appear under the general "Notice" events and people have the ability to turn them off through their Notification settings.
Divide and Conquer So, how do you divide up your guild, what should you have in it? There's no one right answer to that question, as each guild will be different and tailored to the needs of its representative shop. Take a perusal at some existing shop guilds for inspiration. There are some good common practices - for example, keep your Owner's List (and other very very frequently used threads) in the main section of your guild rather than a subforum so they're dead easy to find. If you have a large complicated guild, consider a directory in the main section with links to help people find what they're looking for. A subforum for customs and another for breedings are almost always appropriate (unless your shop doesn't offer one or the other) as there tend to be a lot of rules and threads associated with both. A Quests subforum is another common choice, for customers to post their wishes for future pets. Many shops feature a "Journal" type area where customers can keep track of their own pets/plots/ideas and decorate it to their tastes. If you plan on having large events an "Events/Games" subforum may well be in order for your guild.
Hard Hats Mandatory Beyond This Point One section you should definitely have is a "Staff Only" subforum (remember to set the permissions to Crew!) In here you can put planning threads for future events, pay scale, how to access the shop PB account, procedures for doing breedings/customs, your shop accounts, workloads of your staff, contact information, where to access the shop lineart, certing instructions, quota/pet dropoffs for future sale, and possibly a shop calendar to help you schedule things.
Don't be too worried about filling out your guild completely when you're starting off - it will change and evolve as your shop grows. It is a good idea to get your subforums sorted out at the beginning (or at least early on) because there is no easy way to reorganize them on the list. In particular any subforum with a lot of threads (such as RP areas) will be very annoying to move around later since each thread has to be shifted individually. Give some thought to your subforum order before you get too far along.
Owner's List An Owner's List (with information such as name of owner, name of pet, gender, and possibly species, colorist, or purchase method) is a common feature in many shops for the good reason that it's a very useful thing to have. Some shops place their Owner's List (OL) on the first or second page of the shop itself - I recommend you use your guild instead. Editing in the guild is faster (fewer images to load) can be done by any Crew Member (thus is easily delegated and doesn't require handing over mule access) and OL's have the tendency to get very large indeed! Breaking them down by alphabetical section (A-C, D-F, etc) in separate posts will not only make your life easier, but looks very professional.
At the bare minimum, your OL should contain the owner's name and each of their pet's names, plus a link to that pet. Organizing things by owner will show you at a glance how many pets each person has. Other optional information can include (though optional to taste): • Gender - useful for determining the M/F balance. • Species - if you have multiple species or types • Acquisition Method - for example, flatsale, custom, auction. etc. • Parents - for second generation and higher • Link to Cert - for checking out what they look like. • Colorist - so you can keep track of who did what. • Mate - to show they're committed already breeding wise • Offspring - any children of this pet.
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Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:43 pm
Shop Mules
Pretty much any shop of a decent size is going to need/want a shop mule. A shop mule is an account made specifically to run a shop, which is usually shared by two or more people who are managing the front page and other official business. Be aware that if you share a shop mule, you are responsible for what others do on that account. Make sure you can trust the people you are sharing the mule account with, and don't leave large sums of money/expensive items on there if you think that'll be too much temptation.
Why would I want a Pack Animal? Shop Mules are common practice because of their utility. Instead of setting up the first page(s) of the shop thread with your personal account, using a mule allows you to later provide access to the shop/transfer ownership without compromising your main. Having a shop mule (and directing people to send their questions to it) also means you can keep your own inbox under control. FInally, shop mules look nice - you can give them a name appropriate to the shop and dress them up to match your theme, use them to post official announcements, and put the guild under their name.
Lock and Key Your only means of keeping your mule (and thus your shop) secure is your password. Ensure you choose something both memorable and difficult to crack. Weak passwords are a liability for any online account. Avoid choosing a password that's directly related to your shop (like the shop name, one of the NPC's names, etc.) Write down your password and keep it in a safe place. Ensure the mule account is tied to an email address that you will keep active. This goes for any account, not just mules.
Multiple Muleys Most shops have a single shop mule, which works quite nicely. You may wish for other shop mules, depending on how big your shop gets and how you've divided up the labor. Other possible Shop Mules include:
• Events Mule - for handling raffle ticket trades • Arrivals Mule - for dropping off newly tagged/certed pets • "Bank" Mule - for storing excess funds away from the main mule. • RP Mule - for use by your RP manager(s) in official plot related capacities.
I would however advise caution when considering additional mules. Make sure you really *need* them and aren't just adding more complications to your life. Extra accounts means extra passwords to remember and more hassle hopping accounts to do different things. Balance the advantages against the drawbacks and decide if multi-muledom is right for you.
Multiple-Personalities More than one person can be logged into a mule account at the same time (confusing in the extreme!) It's important to know that if you log out of a mule account and someone else is on it, they will *also* be logged out, potentially losing whatever they were working on. Check to see if the mule is online before you log into it to avoid messing things up. When several people are sharing a single mule account it's useful to assign each one of them a post color so that people can tell who's who. You can use the mule's signature space to let people in on the code: Ex: Felmino types in dark blue.
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Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:51 pm
Your B/C Rights and ObligationsRights and Obligations - a lot of these are implicit, that is, not expressly stated anywhere, where a few are outlined in the rules covering B/C Shops and by the general Gaian ToS (Terms of Service) While shop owners are generally free to make whatever rules they want for their shop, those rules cannot supersede the ones dictated by Gaia. ALL of these apply to your shop! Be familiar with them. • Gaia Rules & GuidelinesThis is the "plain english" version of the ToS - you should be familiar with it already, since it covers everything you do on Gaia. • Mini Shops Rules & RegulationsMini Shops is the super-category that B/C falls under, thus the Minishop rules also apply to your shop. • Breedables Changeables Rules & GuidelinesThis is the most relevant section of rules since it's specifically for B/C shops, so read it through several times to be sure you understand. Ignorance is not a legal defence! Further Reading: • Art Requests & CommissionsWhile not directly related to B/C, the rules for auctions and some of the general guidelines here are good things to know and follow. SuggestionsMake your tagged pets signature friendlyNot an "official" obligation based on the rules, but it's something you should do anyways. A lot of customers aren't savvy enough (or too excited!) to check the size of their newly acquired pet, so for their safety and happiness make sure you stick to the 500x500px, 100kb or less signature size required on Gaia. Keep your front page up to dateNothing turns people away like a sale that took place three months ago still being advertised. Similarly, dead links, and the dreaded "this image is not available" placeholder Photobucket graphic are to be destroyed on sight. Cull your affiliates list on a regular basis ( more about affiliation here). Keep your rules conciseGo through your rules and cull/combine them when possible. The less there is for people to read, the more likely they are to actually get through the material. Keep track of updates & changesThe rules that apply to a pet are the rules of the shop AT POINT OF SALE. This is why it's important to log all changes to your rules (for example going from open pets to RP Required) so you can make appropriate decisions in the case of disagreement. Having recent updates on your front page (and/or shop title changes) also shows people your shop is active, and makes it more likely they'll visit.
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Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 11:01 am
Image WranglingOnline Organization Give some thought as to how you're going to organize all those images. Right now you probably have few or no pets, what about in a few months? a year? Deciding how things will be organized and sticking to it can save you a lot of trouble later on down the road. Separate sections for "dropoffs" (certs/uncerts) and your colorists (unreleased pets) are a good idea - the colorist section can be set to private, and the dropoffs to public. If you're keeping all of a pets stages (if you have growing pets) hosted, you'll need separate sub folders for that too. If you keep the names and file locations the same when "growing" pets to their next stage, they will automatically update. HostingYou're going to need an online image host to share your images with. For most people, that will be Photobucket - it's one of the largest and most established sites, it allows direct linking, and it's the only one white listed by Gaia - even if you're not logged in Gaia will allow Photobucket images to be shown. It does, however, have some nasty traits. Your storage space is limited to 500 Mb unless you pay for more, and you have a monthly bandwidth allowance - go over, and all your images disappear until next month. Consider keeping your shop front images (banners, headers, etc) in a separate account so that the whole shop doesn't disappear if you get an especially heavy bandwidth month. ArchivingBACK UP YOUR FILES. Let me repeat that again, for those who missed it. BACK. UP. YOUR. FILES. FREQUENTLY!Overkill? No. I've seen more than one shop fold like a house of cards due to computer hard drive failure/theft of a laptop/file corruption. Don't let your shop be the next victim, back up your files, and do it regularly. That means storing them in at LEAST three locations, two of which should be physically separate (not in the same building.) For example, one copy on your computer, one copy burned to DVD or an external drive, and one copy stored online. The most important things to back up are: • Your Lineart/templates • Edits • Certificate • Unreleased Pets • Copy of all certs/uncerts • Banners Many shops choose not to keep certs/uncerts past a certain date, relying on customers to pick them up. Personally, I feel it's a wise investment to save them, for a few reasons. One, if a customer goes through a hard drive failure/file corruption and didn't have a backup, you can give them their pet again, for which they are likely to be very grateful. Goodwill is always a good thing. If you decide to change your cert you'll be able to recert pets easily. Saving copies of past pets also lets you keep tabs on which names are taken (if you name the files appropriately) and serves as a readily available reference should you be called on to produce offspring for pets later on down the road. At the very least, you should back up your base lineart in several secure places - of all your assets, it's probably the least easily replaced. DropboxThis is my absolute favourite cloud application out there. Dropbox is kind of hard to describe, because it does so many wonderful things! In a nutshell, it's an automated, online backup service that archives things you place in a special folder on your computer, and allows you to access it from other linked computers (optionally). Dropbox is extremely useful in a B/C context for file sharing with your staff, especially lineart. It also has a gallery feature but most shops will still want a PB account (because PB is whitelisted by Gaia as a "safe" image source). Of course it's also a great way to safeguard your precious shop files - even if your whole computer implodes, they'll still be retrievable. Files don't expire, and a basic 2Gb account is free. If you'd like a referral link for an extra 250mb of space, here you go.
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Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 11:03 am
The Bottom Line
For many people, their B/C shops are truly a labor of love and no amount of gold could compensate for the time they put in. However, revenues are one way of examining your success as a shop. Your prices, which are responsible for those revenues, will in turn affect customer's opinions of your shop.
Price Me, Please So how much do you charge? B/C pets range in price from free to millions, so it can be hard to decide. Your best bet is to look at the shops that are most similar to your ideas and go from there. As a *rough* ballpark, most "Flatsale" pets cost between 2,000 and 10,000 gold. Those with superior art and/or unique edits and lineart usually cost more.
Different Folks, Different Sales More important than your basic price is to cater to a variety of price points. A good shop will have pets priced from free to possibly millions of gold on offer at various times, through flatsales, giveaways, raffles, auctions and customs.
Flatsales - these are the basic sale type, and have two main variants - flaffle, and speedflat. Flaffles have a window of entry time, after which a winner is rolled who can then buy the pet. Speedflats are first come, first served. Speedflats are easier to run (since no list or rolling is needed) but have some problems from a customer's point of view. Speed sales require the participants to be awake and online (not always possible depending on where you live) and favor those with fast reflexes and internet connections. Flaffles on the other hand take more time to run but are fairer, as every entrant gets an equal chance.
Giveaways - freebies are a common thing in most shops, and with good reason - they build a positive reputation for your shop, can be used to reward customers, and ensure that everyone no matter their income level has a chance at getting a pet. Giveaways come in as many varieties as you can imagine, though most are either luck based or skill based, some are a bit of both. Dicerolling is an example of a luck based giveaway. A roleplaying contest would be a good example of a skill based giveaway.
Raffles - Raffles are another popular sale method. They usually consist of one or more pets for which "tickets" are sold. Common ticket prices are 10-500 gold, 100 being the most common. Pick an easy to work with denominator, while 99 gold tickets might sound cool it's not fun to try and calculate the cost of 45 of them in your head. Make a list of tickets sold as trades come in; it's useful to have a guild thread dedicated to raffle ticket orders and a form, so that you have a record to check against. When the ticket selling period ends, one or more numbers are rolled for the prize(s). Most raffles allow choice (i.e. first winner has first pick, second gets the other pet.) Include "Picks" in your raffle entry form so that you won't be left waiting for customers to respond before handing out pets. Raffle proceeds should be divided equally amongst the colorist for each pet; you may wish to assign extra "shares" for heavily edited pets. It's easier all around if all the raffle pets are of a similar quality/type.
Auctions - Like raffles, auctions last a certain period of time, usually they are for a single pet (or the winner may only keep one of the pets and must give the other(s) away). You may or may not wish to allow co-bidding (depending if you have a multiple pet auction and/or allow co-ownership.) Also decide on your item policy - if you will allow items to be part or all of the payment, and how you will value them. TekTek is the usual tool of choice for valuation of items, many shops use a "TekTek Low -5%" rule for item bids. Anti-Snipe is another thing worth mentioning for auctions - if there are bids in the last 15 minutes of the auction (for example, "snipe guard" protection time is variable) then the auction is extended a further 15 minutes. This protects bidders from being "sniped" by another bidder in the last few seconds of the auction and being unable to counter-bid. "No new bidders in the last 15 minutes" is another common auction rule, to encourage those who want to participate to make at least one bid early on to show their interest and get things started. Some shops offer an "Autobuy" for auctions - that is, a certain price someone can pay to own the pet outright. I would recommend that you do not offer an Autobuy in your shop until you get a good feel for what your auctions usually go for, so as to neither over nor under price yourself, if you wish to use Autobuys. On one hand, they may encourage an early sale when someone sees a pet they "have to have". On the other, you are limiting your sale price to no higher than the AB, which may cost the shop money for a pet that proves unexpectedly popular.
Pre-Raffle Auctions - worth noting on their own, this is an auction with a twist; instead of bidding on a specific pet, customers are bidding on their choice of one raffle pet in the raffle pool. If you are going to run a Pre-Raffle Auction, make sure you conclude it before you open raffle ticket sales; otherwise customers may buy tickets hoping for a certain pet only to have that one taken in the auction, and be disappointed. I commonly have an odd number for a raffle pot that will feature an auction (11 or 13 etc) so there seems to be an "extra" instead of "one missing" when the raffle opens.
Customs - Customs are probably the most difficult and varied sale type to price. While you can ballpark your numbers by looking at other shops, your art, style, level of editing and coloring will all affect your final numbers. Offering a variety of price points will increase your customs appeal. Many shops offer a "colorist's choice" or "semi-custom" option. Colorist's choice means just that, the customer may get to specify one trait and/or gender, but the rest is up to the colorist's whim. Semi-customs typically offer a choice of several colors and possibly a pattern or theme. "Full customs" mean the customer has complete control over the design within your shop's limits.
Plan ahead what, if any limits you will have on your pets. Must they be naturally colored examples of their species? "tribal" or "tatto" paint but otherwise natural? Any color under the sun? What edits will you allow, natural or physical mutations? clothing? mecha/technology? Can growing customs be ordered or adults only? All of these need to be clearly defined in your custom rules. You should also have rules for how often a specific customer can order a custom, and prices for your various custom options. The clearer you make your pricing, the fewer confused customers you'll have to deal with.
Laws of Supply and Demand One of the odd things about B/C shops is that they're not really analogous to a physical retail shop at all - most of the time, you'll have nothing in stock for sale. Even moderately popular shops find it impossible to keep pets available, and that's not necessarily a bad thing. People tend to appreciate the things they have to earn or work for a bit more than those that are easily obtainable. Now, that doesn't mean you should make your pets difficult to acquire!
Don't nickel and dime the consumer with complicated pricing structures for normal sales. While heavily customized pricing works well for Minishops & customs, it tends to be confusing when dealing with large numbers of individual pets that may not fit into nice neat categories. Price your wares clearly, and make sure you state the fees UP FRONT and boldly. Nobody likes hidden fees. Include all the basics in your flat rate - a portion for the shop, certing, management, and of course the colorist/editor.
Rewards beyond Price A caution against "rare". It's rather common to see shops with rare or limited pets or pet species. This might be a whole type of pet that is rare, or only a variety - like winged, or "gods". Certain edits might be deemed rare as well, and only available for a very high price. What, you ask, is wrong with rare? It's artificial rarity. The pet/species/edit is only rare because you've made it so, and in many cases certain pets seem to be "rare' only to provide the shop with more money in it's coffers - they're not any better (in many cases only slightly different) than the "common" pets.
So what? Lots of shops have rare pets - what's the harm? Well, none, directly. Indirectly though, rare pets encourage elitism especially when those rare pets are "buyable". Yes they will make your shop richer, but possibly at the expense of good customers turned away because "they could never afford the pet they really wanted". The "common" pets may also be perceived as cheap, less vauable, or less desirable. I've heard and seen people who were unwilling to pair their pets with the so called "commons" for breeding because they weren't good enough to be their pet's mate. Unless you have fixed limits on how many of a "rare" pet will be made, they are quite likely to not remain rare for very long.
Good uses of "rare" - not all rarity is bad. In some cases it's justified or even beneficial. Certain pets may be rare because they play a special role in your plot or story, and require regular attention from their owners as a result. Pets may be seasonal (only available on Halloween, Christmas, Easter, etc.) or a shop reward for your "regulars" - such as Elder stages. Money doesn't matter since you can't buy them, and those who do have them have earned the right to have their "rare" pet. They stand as an accomplishment that anyone can get with honest effort, not a reward for those who can buy GC cards to finance an artificially inflated custom. Certain types of pets may be rare and more expensive because they have unique, complex edits or their own special lineart - in which case it's quite justified to pay more for something that necessitated a lot of extra work.
Don't make your pets nothing but a status symbol for the wealthy.
Ammendum: This isn't to say you shouldn't have variant prices for different lineart or pets, especially if some of them are more complicated or difficult to color/edit than others. Use your common sense, 100, 150 versus 200k pets are reasonable, 100k versus 100 million gold pets are not.
Paying your Staff Just like a real business, you'll need to keep books - lists of money coming in and money going out, and for what. Accounting may not be a fun task but it's a vital consideration. If you don't pay your staff properly and on time, they're likely to look for employment somewhere else.
Keeping your books online works pretty well, just make sure that you put it somewhere private. Leaving your bookeeping in your main guild isn't recommended if you have Crewed additional accounts (as is likely if you have managers/assistants) because they will be able to edit your accounting information - better to avoid temptation and put the records out of reach.
You may find it helpful to have a "dropoff" thread in a private subforum for your colorists to leave their finished pets - it makes tracking down who colored what and when that much simpler.
Colorist staff are relatively easy to pay, since they work for a straight percentage of the sale price. How much should you pay other staff though, such as assistants, certists or managers? In many cases "support" staff are paid with customs or other in shop perks, but you may also provide them with a share of the profits. Certists are commonly paid a flat fee per pet certed, but it's more difficult to gauge the efforts of managers or assistants. They may get a percentage of the shop's profits each month or a set amount based on their work. It's important to find something that's equitable for all, and ensures you're not losing money on sold pets!
For example, let's say you've decided your flatsale price is 5k, and colorists get 80% of flatsale profits. That means 4k of every pet sold belongs to the colorist, leaving you 1,000 gold to pay other staff and profit. Remember that some of the "profit" from higher valued sales (auctions, raffles, etc) will have to go towards paying for freebies given away unless you're doing them yourself.
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Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 11:06 am
Postscript~
First of all, I would like to thank all the customers of Aerithe in its' first year - you showed me the way, and for that you have my sincerest thanks. A big thank-you has to go out to Llia, for her acerbic wit and unwavering friendship. You are truly a diamond amongst the rocks, sharp pointy edges and all.
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Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 11:08 am
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Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 11:34 am
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