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I'm a horse person, but I might be getting a goat. *Update* Goto Page: 1 2 [>] [»|]

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Doll With A Knife

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:16 pm


Our neighbor has tons of goats, and I've been making friends with one of his does. She'll come up to the fence and I'll feed her and pet her and whatnot. But I just recently found out that the guy raises them for slaughter. eek

I went over and asked him if he'd sell her to me, and he said I could have her for 50 bucks. If I don't buy her, she'll eventually end up in his freezer. And that would make me very sad. sad I have a pasture with two horses and plenty of hay, so I'm not worried about where to keep her. What kind of dewormer do you give them, and how often do they need it? And is there any other routine maintenance I should know about?

UPDATE

Yesterday was rather interesting. I went over to the neighbors' to return something and the wife told me if I wanted the goat, I could just have her. Then the guy and his buddy took the goat and dropped her over on our side of the fence. eek Their daughter said something about her fighting with the other animals at feeding time, so I'm wondering if they just didn't want her anymore.

Anyway, this is Adelia. She's settling in very nicely and our horses don't mind her at all.
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My dad isn't too thrilled about it, but my mom really likes her. =] She's such a good girl. I had her in the barn with me while I was doing chores and she followed me like a puppy dog. She has a fit when I'm in the barn and she's not. lol
PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:54 pm


Great Question! and let me start by saying they make great companions for horses!

Wormers-
Do not, and i mean DO NOT, use safeguard goat wormer. It doesn't work.

I would recommend either using Cydectin Cattle Pour-On, or Ivermectin.

Cydectin Cattle Pour-On- This is what i use, and belive me, it works wonders! You give it Orally(yes, through the mouth) at a dose of 1cc/20lbs of goat. So if you have a 40 pound goat give 2cc.

Ivermectin 1% cattle injectable- Give orally at a rate of 1cc/50lbs. If you use this one be absolutely sure that you do not overdose! This is what is in a lot of heartworm medications for dogs, and has been used a great deal in the livestock industry so you're area might have worms that have built up a resistance.

Both of these are rather expensive, but its worth it, especially when it lasts so long. They will definately pay for themselves.


Routine Maitenance:

Hoof Trimming is a big thing that needs to be done. All goat's hooves grow at different rates, but typically trimming every 6 weeks is best. You may want to look up diagrams for trimming, but its really easy after your first two or so times. I recommend getting a pair of Hoof Rot Shears, or Goat Hoof Trimmers, simply for ease of trimming. Garden Shears can also work. Also your first time have some blood stop powder on hand, just in case.

Worming done on an as need basis is best. But if you notice thier skin on thier lips and under the eyelid starts getting pale, they should have been wormed a week ago. With the suggested wormers though, dont do it more than once a month. For the Cydectin you can redose as soon as 3 weeks after the first dose if you have a heavy worm load, but dont make it a habit.

Other things:
Goat specific loose minerals are recommended because they dont always get all the minerals they need from the plants and thier feed.

Also what breed is she?
If she's boer i recommend an 18% protein feed. Grain horse feeds will work, just not pelleted horse feeds. However if you get a feed labeled for goats, such as purina goat show it is fine. Do not get an "All Stock" feed.

If she is Kiko, or a dairy breed you cna go as low as 16% protein, but nothing lower.If you plan on milking make sure that it is a non-medicated feed.

Sorry for the text wall. sweatdrop If you have any more questions please feel free to ask. mrgreen

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 10:13 am


Thank you, this was very helpful!

I'm not sure what breed she is, but she's black and white with longish horns, and she's kind of big. The guy told me that if I bred her to a fainting buck, the baby would be a fainting goat (not that I'm planning on breeding her). I'm not sure if that tells you anything. sweatdrop I'll take pictures next time I see her.

He also told me he gives his sheep and goats sweet feed, but that stuff is nothing but sugar and I'd rather not give her that. Can she have oats or roasted soybeans? That's what I give my horses. Otherwise I can just get goat feed.

Oh, and do they just need the spring and fall vaccinations, like horses? I vaccinate my horses myself, so I could probably do the goat too, once the vet shows me how.
PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 2:11 pm


I'm also a horse person, but I got three pygmy-mixes as babies at the beginning of this year. I actually took one of the does to my county fair, and I won first in my utility class, and reserve junior champ! Individual goats are definitely way more easier to care for than horses, and much easier to show. I just give mine Purina goat feed. Foot trimming is also easy after your first few tries. Just use some nice garden shears, and stop when they're level with the sole, or you barely start to see pink. Their feet are a lot softer than you think. TSC sells berry-flavored goat mineral blocks that you can attach to a wall or the side of a fence, just like giving a horse a salt block. I nailed a really bristly, stiff broom head to the wall of their stall so they can rub against it during the spring and get rid of all that shedding fur (and they have a LOT of it!).
They really love treats like animal crackers and popcorn. However, if its a Boer goat you're getting, you'll definitely want to watch her diet. Boer goats are bred for meat, which means they aren't bred for longevity. She could develop foot problems later in life because she was built to carry a lot of muscle for a short amount of time, not for 10 years or so. Just keep her feet trimmed and don't overfeed.
I found tons of books at the library that tell how to worm and feed different breeds of goats, and they all have creative ways to keep hay off the ground and to keep the goat from pooping in its water bucket (they do that a lot... they won't drink it if there's even one little pellet in it. They'd rather dehydrate first).

I hope that helps, from one new goat owner to another!

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 2:47 pm


Did anyone mention how escape proof a goat fence should be? I've read a bit that says they need either electrified or very high/sturdy fences because they're escape artists. However I don't actually have goats, so... any goat-owner have comments on that front?
PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 5:47 pm


Vaccinations: I give mine CD&T. It protects against types C and D enterotoxima, and Tetanus. However if they have an open wound i would give a tetanus antitoxin, and not the CD&T until it is healed. CD&T has a toxoid in it instead of an antitoxin.

Your area also depends on the types of vaccinations you need. I would talk to a vet about the specifics.

Feed: Yes your horse feed will do fine. Since she is proably a Mytonic mix, judging by what the breeder said i would go with an 18% protein feed like the boeers, since they are both meat breeds. And If it is part dairy the extra protein wont hurt. Another good feed additive is Black Oiled Sunflower Seeds. Has good nurtients, and a little protien boost too. Not too much though. Just maybe a few sprinkled the top of her regular feed.

Fencing: Lime Kiss is definately right about that. They are real escape artists, so regular horse fencing WILL NOT keep them in. You need either a 4ft or taller no climb horse fencing, Cattle Panels (at leat 4ft tall), or Electric fencing (6 strand minimum). Since its a doe you probably wont have to worry about her pushing the posts over like the bucks will when they are in rut, but its still good to have nice and sturdy poles.

Again, sorry for the text wall. :3

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 10:18 am


I have electric fence, but I'll probably be putting a couple more rows on it. Actually, I should probably go do that right now...
PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 8:35 pm


please let us know if/when you get her!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 7:39 am


Everyone's given some great advice here, but I would like to add when purchasing your feed watch how much copper is in it. Goats can't handle as much as your horses can, or really as much as your horses need. If you just want her for a pet, evcen though she's a meat breed I'd stick with a 16% protien feed, she'll still get what she needs, but won't be as prone to pacing on the pounds. If you were breeding her or milking her I'd go with the 18%, but if you plan on keeping her as a pet 16% should be fine.

I always gave CD&T once yearly as well as Rabies. I don't know what part of the world you're in, but up here it's a required vaccination for all livestock. A vet needs to do the rabies, but CD&T can be purchased at TSC and is give SQ/SC and is a piece of cake if you can manage to find loose skin on her. I always found the shoulder area of the front legs to be good for a little extra skin.
PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 2:27 pm


She's very pretty! mrgreen Definately looks like a Mytonic mix. biggrin

You will definatly have lots of fun with her!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 5:18 pm


omg shes so cute!!! free goat!! XD how old is she? and has she been with a buck? she could be prego if so 0.0
PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 8:31 pm


Oh my gosh...

Shes WAY TOO CUTE!
Hope you have fun with her!
Goats are great!

`Akiko`


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 1:03 am


She's very cute! And the horses seem pretty cool, just poking her a little with their noses smile
PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 11:49 am


Cowgirl-with-heart
omg shes so cute!!! free goat!! XD how old is she? and has she been with a buck? she could be prego if so 0.0

Thank you. =] I believe she's 3 years old, and the guy told me she's not pregnant. I hope he's right. She has had a baby before, and her daughter now has a son. So she's a grandma. O.o Seems a little young to me, but that's what he told me.

The guy owns a huge buck (looks like a Boer to me) that he breeds all his does to, but he keeps the buck and ram in a separate paddock so he can control it.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 12:05 pm


I'm kind of glad he gave her to me, because as time gos by, I keep getting the impression that he doesn't take very good care of his livestock. I know he raises them for slaughter and he doesn't have the warm-fuzziness toward his animals, but I've noticed that some of his goats have really overgrown hooves. And his sheep don't look very good at all. I was talking to his daughter over the fence and she said their sheep have been dying. eek

I thought something weird was going on a few weeks ago when I saw a couple of sheep walking funny. They were hobbling around, kind of like a foundered horse, and they kept going down on their knees. Plus he doesn't sheer them, so their fur is coming off in clumps and they're all muddy. I'm wondering if there is a disease going around and he didn't catch it in time. He has the vet out once a month to deworm the animals, so I'm assuming the vet also knows about the sheep. But still, if they're suffering, you'd think he'd have them put down.
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