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Basic Photographic Principles

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Bituminous Sky
Captain

PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 11:29 pm


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Things You Should Know

Film/Digital Speed:
Film/CCD sensitivity are rated at different speeds depending on their sensitivity to light. Each film is given a speed rating known as an ISO (digital) or an ASA(film) rating
50-100 ISO = Outdoors, brightly lit areas, least amount of noise/grain
200 ISO = Indoors, general lighting, mid-level setting some noise/grain
400 - 1600 ISO = Dimly lit areas (ie concerts, plays, limited lighting), occasions when you may need to speed up your shutter speed to catch action (ie. indoor sports), larger amounts of noise/grain
3200 ISO = last resort, only for very low levels of light and usually only used when flash is enabled, often very noisey/grainy.

Shutter Speed:
-This is the amount of time the shutter stays open
-It can commonly range from 1/10000th of a second to 30 seconds
-There is also Bulb Mode on higher-level SLR models which keeps the shutter open as long as you have your finger on the shutter release button.

To capture action- Use a higher shutter speed about 1/250 to 1/5000 depending on the movement.
To capture blur/motion- Use a slower shutter speed around 1/60th and slower depending on the motion again
Note: slower shutter speeds need a tripod to prevent camera shake

Aperture:
Controls Depth of field and the amount of light hitting the film
-Aperture can range from f1 to f32
-f1 will let in the most light
-f32 will let in the least light

Shallow Depth of Field:
-Portraiture is best done with a shallow depth of field to separate the important subject from a cluttered or uninteresting background.
-To put the background out of focus requires a shallow depth of field - a wide aperture should be used ie f2.4 or smaller.

Greater Depth of Field:
-For example, landscape photography is best done with greater depth of field.
-Some foreground detail is a good idea to add interest to the otherwise boring background.
-To achieve this effect a narrow aperture is required, for example, f22.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 11:40 pm


Composition & Other Things To Keep In Mind

Now for the artistic side:

The Rule of Thirds:

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Imagine that this grid is laid over your image as you take the photo [while looking through the viewfinder]

When composing your image, you'll often find that the most effective composition will come from placing your subjects on the lines and intersections of the grids. For example, if you're shooting a person, it will look much better to line the person up against either the right or left line of the grid than it would to put them directly in the center of the frame.

Some Tips:
-Most photos look artistically superior if they are not symmetrical; however, symmetry, if used properly, can create geometrically appealing images.
-Place the emphasis of the photo to one side or towards either the top or bottom of the photo.
-With landscapes, either the land or the sky is usually the interesting feature, so the feature should dominate the photo. Don't divide the photo equally between the two. Your horizon should NEVER be directly in the middle of the frame.

Distractions:
-Watch out for the pole behind the subject. In a flat photo it could appear to be growing from your best friend's head.
-If the subject is on the right hand side of the photo and is looking to his left (our right) he is looking out of the photo. This is distracting because the viewer will wonder what he's looking at.
-Roads, railway tracks, telegraph lines, footpaths, lines of any kind should lead into the photo if at all possible.
-Try to avoid shooting in locations filled with distracting objects ie cluttered living rooms, bedrooms, or kitchens. Busy backgrounds can seriously detract from the quality of an image.

Bituminous Sky
Captain


Bituminous Sky
Captain

PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 11:48 pm


PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 7:41 pm


Even More Information on Composition!
Borrowed from DeviantArt News

Filling the four corners of the frame raises the compositional bar, asking one to not only isolate the subject, but to use the frame as efficiently and as powerfully as possible. On page 7 of The Art of Photographing Nature, the authors discuss the specific task of filling the four corners of the frame. Editor Martha Hill suggests that this is simply working within the space dictated by the rectangle of the viewfinder. A simple concept, but it’s not easy to do, especially when the subject is in motion.

The bottom line: good composition is a matter of awareness. Try as best you can to be conscious of your entire frame. You’re looking, of course, to fill the frame with content, but also with design and visual flow. Photographers who can do this juggling several important intellectual tasks at once and getting it right can be confounding to beginning photographers. Strong composition, though, is a fundamental necessity of professional work. Hint: practice makes perfect.

Composition is how we structure a picture to be coherent and lovely. Like the skeleton that is brought to life by the muscles and ligaments attached to it, composition is the unseen structure that gives strength to the photographic statement. If it is strong, lyrical, and clear it has the power to move others. The photographer, like the brain that directs the whole synchrony of elements, is the soul breathing life into the inanimate. (16)

Qualifications for Well-composed images

(1) Framing—Where to place the Subject- This should be your first consideration when trying to make a photograph. Afterwards, you find its relationship to and with other elements. Subject placement also has its ramifications for the ultimate use of the photo as well. Subjects have a ‘visual weight,’ in other words a certain importance or position. When this weight it out of balance (too high, too low, too close to an edge, etc.), many find the effect jarring.

(2) Format: (Horizontal or Vertical?)- There are situations in which both formats are equally valuable and as a photographer you should be aware of that. Each one is valid, yet says different things. Vertical usually puts an emphasis on tall, slender things, whereas a horizontal gives more of a sense of place. Finally, if you plan to publish your pieces, room for cropping is needed. This is why it is important to have both horizontals and verticals for maximum flexibility. Magazine covers use verticals most of the time and need room to place their title and articles within a magazine may call for a certain image size and shape.

(3) Framing—Cropping- Where an image is cropped within the frame can make a significant difference in how a subject looks. “By selecting certain subjects to lie within the frame, you make a statement about them and create a balance of elements. If those elements come in contact with the frame, or are intersected by it, you need to evaluate what this does to the overall balance.

(4) Symmetry vs. Asymmetry- Up until the Renaissance, the tradition of Western art was dominated by symmetry (subject within the center). This was mainly due to religious paintings- they extended upward or downward, from a central figure. Symmetry is a form of centeredness, based on a central line. An implied balance between either sides of the line gives us equilibrium. Symmetrical compositions emanate tranquility and stability, while asymmetrical composition shifts emphasis to one area over another. Asymmetry does require a balance to be restored. Since we experience gravity, we look at the world with a subconscious assumption that everything falls to the ground (things lower in the frame appear naturally weighted toward the earth).

(5) Center of Interest- This does not mean the subject should be in the center. A poorly composed photo allows the viewer to wander outside the photo or even feel out of balance. Also, photographers sometimes make the subject too small or too large in relation to other elements, which in return skew meanings. There are still times when putting the subject in the center makes a powerful statement. As long as it is the most interesting part of the picture, it is appropriate.

(6) Integration- Utilizing all the elements “into a series of rhythmic relationships to form an artistic whole.” You are searching for the right combination within the viewfinder. At the same time, you need separate the pieces which work well together, as a whole. The Golden Mean (an ideal ratio the Greeks created; the perfect spatial proportion for sculpture and architecture; mathematically close to a ratio of 8:5). It is not exactly what people call “rule of thirds,” but the idea is same.

Bituminous Sky
Captain

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Gaian Institute of Photography

 
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