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Solarization Basics

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AGVegetarian

PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 2:17 pm


Solarization Basics

WARNING: this technique can cause damage to others prints and is not recommended while using a public darkroom.

Solarization is technique that is generally use for black and white pictures. But what is solarization? Now this may sound curious but solarization is literally the act of overexposing an image. So what is it that sets solarization apart from overexposure? Well the end product of solarization leaves a print with reversed tones while a typical overexposure leaves a photo black. The procedure is an easy one and can be done in a few short steps.

Note: There are many ways to carry out this technique and I will not explain them all, but this way just seemed easier to write directions out for.

Basic Procedure:
First off, proceed in doing as you would for a normal print. Do a quick test strip then print your desired picture. Simple so far. At this point place your print into the developer. Allow the full amount of time to develop (of course we all remember this from photo 101.) Next, hide the all extra photo paper in the room as well as notify anyone else that might be in the darkroom that you will be turning on a non-safe light. This is where the solarization actually begins: take a light source: flashlight, lighter, cell phone, ect. Remember the light source does matter, the stronger the light the faster your print will overexpose! Now, direct the light source of choice to the print in the developer. Apply the light in specific areas or evenly to the entire print. At this stage the extra light should appear as though its quickly darkening the photo. Keep in mind that it is important that if the photo becomes too dark that it is moved swiftly into the stop bath in order to stop the overexposure. Turn the non-safe light off and then proceed through remaining chemicals as normal. The inversed tones are not generally visible within the darkroom, so you will have to exit in order to see the final results of the print.

Examples:
Both examples were done in photoshop CS2. [ I don't have a scanner so PSCS2 will have to do]

The original
User Image

Solarized
User Image

Lighting Variation:
-Translucent color filters over the light source (depending on color or opacity) can help slow down how fast light will overexpose a print.
-When using a flashlight: cover the entire light source with a pinhole lens cap* this will give your light a bit of precision. (use this just to fine tune tones)
-Take a prism or a magnifying glass and direct your light source though either object (prism or magnifying glass) and project the light towards your print in the developer. These two objects can create distinct markings/patterns/gradations.

*[To make a pinhole lens cap, take a regular lens cap and poke a hole in the center]

This is tutorial only explains the basics of solarization. For more technical information visit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sabatier_Effect

Questions? Comments?
PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 10:31 pm


Good tutorial! I'd like to point out how we handle solarization in our darkroom that has usually about 15 people in there at one time. Instead of turning on the white light while the print is directly in the developer we transfer it to a spare tray. We then quickly take that and expose it under the light of an enlarger (raised a bit higher if need be to expose the full photo) that is currently not being used - plan in advanced the location of the enlarger as well as adjusting its aperture and height. After that, return it to the developer if desired or go straight to the stop or water bath. It's important to record the height of the enlarger so that on later days you remain consistant with your exposures under it in terms of how far you are from the light source.

If want to solarize only certain areas of your print, we just use a block board with a whole or shape cut into it to solarize only those parts of the image.

The best way doing solarization in my opinion is by general experimentation... how long to keep it out, how long to expose it under the enlarger, and how long to put it back into the developer. =p

Palundrium


AGVegetarian

PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 12:44 pm


Thank you. And you are absolutely right. I guess, I was thinking in the event that all enlargers are in use and obviously you dont want to pull out your negative...I dunno but yes very good point.
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 1:10 pm



This was very good. I think I will try this tomorrow at school!

ThE PaTTerN QueeN


AGVegetarian

PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 9:14 pm


[ Tamagotchi ]

This was very good. I think I will try this tomorrow at school!


Awesome, any good results?
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Film & Darkroom

 
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