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Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 2:08 pm
SADNESS crying crying crying crying crying crying crying I dun have a horse sad sad but i do ride! smile so i want to buy a horse, but ill need to pull 10, 000 bucks out of my butt for it to work, i already write books, whee so i can get the money in two weeks (after getting it published) so then ill just need to get all of the tools and blankets and stuff. so guys, cud u help me out? please???????? razz thx if you do!
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Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 9:16 pm
Some tips to help you (I currently am on my second horse, and I ride):
- Gather Money first. Don't base your savings on book sales. Get a part time job to help pull together a good 20 grand so you can spend it as needed for your horse.
- After money is gathered, Price out Vets and farriers. If it's a house call, vet's tend to charge by the hour. Farriers charge depending on if your horse has shoes or not.
- Price facilities. If you are boarding your horse, find a place that will take care of your horse, has good grassy fields, shelters, and in barn room for horses that get sick or need turned in. Be sure to check out the horses they keep there. Are they sick? Injured? Are their fields shelter-less and dirt filled? Do they have hay and feed that suits the horse? Be sure to check to see if they have an indoor and outdoor riding ring that you have access to if you want to ride your horse.
- Price supplies. Grooming kits are hard to get piece by piece (Oh how I know that pain. ) so try and get a set to start with, and buy on extras after.
- The horse. Pick a horse you won't grow out of. Get a sturdy 15 hand high horse that will suit your needs. Do you jump? Do you do hunter? Dressage? Showing? Relaxed Western riding? Barrel Racing? Eventing? Pleasure riding? Choose a horse that will work best with you and for you. A calm, gentle Quarter Horse mare is your best bet, even a Quarter Horse gelding will do. Quarter Horses can do just about anything if they are trained and handled right. Have your vet come with you to see if you are getting a healthy, well trained, well handled horse that YOU like and that likes you. A horse around the age of 3-9 is a green broke. That means they are broke to ride, but are still very green at everything. 10+ means they are broke, and can do anything you can ask them to do with the right training. What good is a horse that can only be ridden once a month? A pasture pal for a younger horse. Horses like friends, so get a friend for the horse. A goat (Though, they like to eat horses tails from time to time.), donkey, Mule, miniature horse, Llama, Alpaca and cow are all great friends for horses.
- Tack. Don't get something you are not going to use. Breastplate? Martingale? Are you going to need them for your horse? Probably not unless they have head tossing or other issues or needs. Be sure to fit the saddle correctly with a professional saddle fitter. Buy a USED saddle, because they are cheaper, and are broken in for you. biggrin (I should know, I got my aunts used saddle for free! biggrin ) Getting a new bridle might be a bit much, but hey, buy used. It's broken in and ready to use after a good washing. Don't buy it if it won't fit.
- Feed. What does your horse need? Sweet feed? Fat and Fiber? Mineral? Hay? Beet Pulp? Kibble? A horse has a VERY different diet other then grass and hay. Different horses need different feed. Does he need weight on? Does he need weight off? Is his mouth pale from lack of minerals? Get a vet to help you choose the right feed.
This is all I can give you for now. I'm tired.
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 10:23 am
Great advice Saikano. Except, $20,000??? you can buy a good healthy horse for $3000 and under... unless your competing at large/A circuit shows or something.
15 hands is still on the small side. I'm 5'8" and I need something 15.2+ Now, I do have a 15 hand stocky QH, and the only reason I don't look big on him is because he's so stocky.
I'd also like to add, a lot of horses don't need things like standing or running martingales, but people use them as "quick fixes". I'm not saying that they are bad, becuase yes I've used them - but only for short term use and under the eyes of a professional trainer for proper fitting and use. Seat to legs to hands to softn - and a lot of problems can be fixed without them.
Also, don't go cheap... when buying any saddle - make sure your getting good quality leather (Unless you go synthetic)
Find a horse who will suit your level of riding/discipline and your size (get something on the larger side [16-16.2hh] because you will grow!)
DO YOUR RESEARCH - learn about first aid, illnesses etc. and purchase some good books in that category.
Books/Online Resources: Books: New Horse HandBook - Nancy Bowker Groundwork Training - Lesley Bayley The horse's health bible
I would recommend any book by these trainers - Ray Hunt - Bill Dorrance - Tom Dorrance - Chris Irwin
(some other NH trainers I currently can’t think of, help me out guys)
Online www.e-equestrian.com
A good website to get lots of information, ask questions, get answers from experienced riders/horse owners, trainers, farriers etc.
Going To Look at the Horse - It’s best to have a list of questions prepared to ask, for example: why are they selling? Etc. find out as much information as possible, what they feed and why, when they last had their shots (and proof), when their last farrier visit and any special things they may need. Do they need a winter blanket?
- Always have your own vet come out and check the horse. Get a full vet check before purchasing any horse, no matter who it’s from. Some people out there do lie.
- Bring someone very experienced with you, like a riding coach.
- Have the owner catch the horse, and let you try, then tack up – how does the horse react to being tacked up?
- Have the owner lunge the horse before riding, then you try lunging the horse.
- Have the owner ride first. Then have your coach try, or you can. But always have the owner ride first.
Be sure to touch the horse all over, always keep an eye on his expression. See how well he picks up his feet. How well he ties, how well he loads in a trailer, how does he react being hosed down?
Tack & Equipment Don’t feel pressured to buy everything you can think of right away. Its stressful and just not needed.
Ask why they use a certain piece of tack on the horse, ask why they use the bit they do. Be an educated owner/rider - and if they can't asnwer the question... well, they should educate themselves!
Do they use a running or standing martingale constantly? ... find out these things and find out why. Its a good thing to ask, to gain knowledge it also helps to learn the purpose of different tack pieces.
Buy the things you need. When I planned for my first horse, this was on my list.
- A saddle - Saddle pad (2 under pads since I ride western) - Bridle + reins + bit - Basic grooming kit (curry comb, hard and soft dandy, hoof pick, mane/tail comb, rag, face brush, shedder, sweat scraper, bot knife) - Basic Horse first Aid Kit - Basic Human first aid kit - 1 nylon & 1 rope halter - Cotton lunge line - Lune whip - A 12ft and 14ft lead rope - Fly spray (I’m still hunting for a good brand) - Winter Blanket (ended up not needing) - Cooler
Those were my main expenses that I researched and priced out. There was lots I didn’t need, but since then I have bought. I didn’t rush out to buy every little thing, and you don’t need to do that either.
Visit different tack shops, price around… you can buy things used and save money.
Farrier, Vet and Other You will want to contact farrier’s in your area. Price out the cost of a trim, price of shoes (If you need them), how often they trim – don’t be afraid to ask questions you might have. Find a farrier that will take the time with your horse, and that will be calm if your horse acts up a bit.
I have heard so much about farriers hitting horses with their tools, its madness (This has mostly been in the U.S)
Talk to your vet, find a good experienced vet who will help you. Have them to a vet check, find out cost of shots and stuff. Some vets will teach you basic first aid if you ask.
Last, ask the owner what they feed their horse – if there is any special feed/supplement – price that out. See how much it will cost you on a monthly basis to feed the horse because some need more than just hay.
Also, check out wormers. Here is a good thread from e-equestrian.com on wormers. http://www.e-equestrian.com/showthread.php?t=14384
Other Advice/Information In addition to the vet check…
-I would also suggest, if buying any TB or any horse that has raced, have a vet do x-rays to find any hidden problems or any old race injuries. I know some people who have found really loving horses, that found bone chip or other serious injures because of racing and had to turn the horse down because it wouldn't be able to do what they were looking for.
- If you choose a QH, Paint or Appy - have it tested for HYPP. HYPP positive horses do need meds to keep them from having attacks. If you'd like to know more about it, I know tons. (Went through a freak out stage because I thought my horse was positive for HYPP)
- Not all horses are use to living outside, so pasture board may not be ideal. I would ask the people your buying the horse from, what their routine is, does the horse need a stall? Or is he/she fine to live outside with a suitable pasture - price out full and pasture board
- I would check for any bad habits – things like separation anxiety, barn/herd sour, cribbing etc.
- If you decide to work with a trainer, find a trainer who will work with both you and the horse. It isn’t enough for the horse to learn, because they will act the same as they did before going to the trainer. You have to be educated too. If a trainer won’t work with both of you, its really not worth it. Have a trainer who will work with horse and rider, and who will show/explain things to you. That’s the best trainer to have.
This is all I can think of....
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 1:50 pm
Just a note, Bronco and Ultra Shield are THE best brands of Fly Spray that I have used. biggrin They work great!
Also, better get yourself The Horsemans Bible. It teaches you various things and has pictures and diagrams. biggrin (Mind you, I dunno if they still have it in print, seeing as mine is ANCIENT. )
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 3:16 pm
o.O I was told by a tackshop employee that Ultra Shield was crap, didn't work on her horses for more than 5 minutes and not to waste my money buying it ... and I don't know about Bronco
My horse hates me spraying him with fly spray and won't stand still to wipe it on him so -shrug- I gave up xD
As for the horseman's bible ...
Would this be the book your talking about Saikano? http://www.chapters.indigo.ca/books/The-Horsemans-Bible-Jack-Coggins/9780385183437-item.html?ref=Search+Books:+'horseman's+bible++'&sterm=horseman's+bible+++-+Books
I think it could still be ordered through chapters.
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 5:14 pm
Don't judge by what others say. Ultra Shield is POWERFUL stuff. You only need a few sprays of it and it lasts for about 2-4 days. Bronco is practically the same thing, without the Death Warning on it. xD
No, that's not it. Unless they changed the cover...Mine has a Brown cover.
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Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:03 am
I'm really not sure what to say, but I don't have the money to buy it for myself to find out it doesn't work - I'm waiting till I can steal some off one of my friends and find out.
Hmm well I tried, they may have changed it. Who's the author?
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Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 12:46 pm
Haiiiii Emma! Dood, it'll be ages before you can scrape up money for a horse, and then again where are you going to keep it?Boarding price, tacks and having to take care of it, will your mother drive you everyday to Fiddlers Green?
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Posted: Sat Jul 21, 2007 12:42 pm
Saikano and x_Devils_Child_x - Excellent advice. I am going to just add a few additional things here. I think that the best thing about these forums is that we are all thinking and giving advice and filling in or correcting things someone else has said. By the end the person who asked the question has such a complete response.
First of all I think that both responses were great and very complete. I think that a saddle (with irons and leathers), girth, bridle, pads, grooming kit, fly spray, halter (one nylon to tie with and one leather or breakaway for turnout), leads and lunge are all you really need to start with. Like they said, you pick up the little extras as you need them. I think that they covered enought that I dont really have to go into anything else. However one note I would like to make, x_Devils_Child_x mentioned a few natural horsemanship trainers. I personally do not like natural horsemanship and definitely do not encourage it for new riders to attempt these methods that deal with equine herd psychology and dominance. However I am a strong proponent of reading and I think that if you can read lots of books from trainers of many different backgrounds then you will be better and more informed for it. But check with your trainer before doing anything with your horse, they know your ability and can gauge your horses temperment to let you know if it is a wise choice to do it.
Which brings me to the point that I would like to make. You are speaking of selling a book (which I am weary of such an idea judging by your typing skills) but such income is uncertain. First of all, having a horse is a HUGE expense. There is a reason that if you tell people that you ride, sometimes they ask "Are you rich?". Some trainers try to make lessons affordable, but the reality is that horses are very expensive and a huge responsibility. You MUST be an educated, informed horse person before you can think about owning a horse of your own. You will be incharge of this animals welfare so you owe it to them to know what you are talking about. While you are learning you should work with a qualified, educated, experienced instructor (No one should think that they are good enough to not need an instructor. Olympic competitors take lessons....are you in the Olympics? No? Keeping working). Not only will it help your riding skills progress, you will learn valuable horsemanship skills by watching how a well managed stable is run and how horses are cared for.
Because you are still a beginning rider you will want a nice, quiet horse, preferably one that is a bit slow instead of one that wants to run off with you. You will want your horse to remain nice and easy so that you can manage it, despite any bad habits or riding faults that you bring into the saddle. In order to do this you should board your horse with your instructor and pay a bit extra so your instructor, or an advanced student, exercises your horse a few times every week to make sure he/she is listening and to work on its training. Just because you have a horse doesnt mean that you should quit lessons, you need them now more than ever. The more you ride the further you will go, the more you ride under instruction the further you will go in the right direction. Take as many lessons as you can afford in a week and hopefully you buy a horse that you can hack out (make sure you always go with someone else!) Hacking not only builds a horses condition but you encounter alot of different situations that can help build the horses trust in you (if you handle them correctly) and it improves your instincts as a rider.
Boarding at your trainers barn is about the best situation. Though the horse belongs to you, your trainer can better tell you how to care for it and what it needs. Once again, make sure you have a competant, well informed trainer. Owning a horse is lots of money and a big responsibiliy. But it can also be very rewarding, make sure you do everything to see that the experience is a good one for you and your horse.
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Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 7:43 am
Thx for all the tips guys! 4laugh they really help
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Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:49 pm
Saikano Some tips to help you (I currently am on my second horse, and I ride): - Gather Money first. Don't base your savings on book sales. Get a part time job to help pull together a good 20 grand so you can spend it as needed for your horse. - After money is gathered, Price out Vets and farriers. If it's a house call, vet's tend to charge by the hour. Farriers charge depending on if your horse has shoes or not. - Price facilities. If you are boarding your horse, find a place that will take care of your horse, has good grassy fields, shelters, and in barn room for horses that get sick or need turned in. Be sure to check out the horses they keep there. Are they sick? Injured? Are their fields shelter-less and dirt filled? Do they have hay and feed that suits the horse? Be sure to check to see if they have an indoor and outdoor riding ring that you have access to if you want to ride your horse. - Price supplies. Grooming kits are hard to get piece by piece (Oh how I know that pain. ) so try and get a set to start with, and buy on extras after. - The horse. Pick a horse you won't grow out of. Get a sturdy 15 hand high horse that will suit your needs. Do you jump? Do you do hunter? Dressage? Showing? Relaxed Western riding? Barrel Racing? Eventing? Pleasure riding? Choose a horse that will work best with you and for you. A calm, gentle Quarter Horse mare is your best bet, even a Quarter Horse gelding will do. Quarter Horses can do just about anything if they are trained and handled right. Have your vet come with you to see if you are getting a healthy, well trained, well handled horse that YOU like and that likes you. A horse around the age of 3-9 is a green broke. That means they are broke to ride, but are still very green at everything. 10+ means they are broke, and can do anything you can ask them to do with the right training. What good is a horse that can only be ridden once a month? A pasture pal for a younger horse. Horses like friends, so get a friend for the horse. A goat (Though, they like to eat horses tails from time to time.), donkey, Mule, miniature horse, Llama, Alpaca and cow are all great friends for horses. - Tack. Don't get something you are not going to use. Breastplate? Martingale? Are you going to need them for your horse? Probably not unless they have head tossing or other issues or needs. Be sure to fit the saddle correctly with a professional saddle fitter. Buy a USED saddle, because they are cheaper, and are broken in for you. biggrin (I should know, I got my aunts used saddle for free! biggrin ) Getting a new bridle might be a bit much, but hey, buy used. It's broken in and ready to use after a good washing. Don't buy it if it won't fit. - Feed. What does your horse need? Sweet feed? Fat and Fiber? Mineral? Hay? Beet Pulp? Kibble? A horse has a VERY different diet other then grass and hay. Different horses need different feed. Does he need weight on? Does he need weight off? Is his mouth pale from lack of minerals? Get a vet to help you choose the right feed. This is all I can give you for now. I'm tired. I dont' mean to be rude.. but I needed to say something about your green horse comment. Age does not tell if the horse is green broke or not.. it depends on the amount of riding and experience it's had. A horse thats four could be completely broke. And a horse thats 17 thats hardly been ridden could be a complete nut case. I do agree that a quarter horse mare would be best.. because mares seem to try harder for you. Yep:]
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Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:26 pm
Jessica: I was just basing that part from MY general experience. Yes, there are young horses who are broke and ready to ride, and there are older horses who haven't seen a saddle before. It depends on who trained the horse / owned it. From my experience, young horses do tend to not know as much as an older horse would. (School horses that are 3-9 are VERY green from what I have ridden / known. ) Just saying. xd
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